Front drive axle torsion bar mount cracked and leaking oil

Who ever welded this, did an extremely chincy job. Truck has a peterbilt airtrak suspension. Evidently there’s been some troubles in this area before. I’m a pretty competent welder and this job can be done with thorough cleaning and prep, a 7018 rod or a mig welder, with good heat. Should I remove the torsion bar when welding or leave it with or without suspension aired up?

 

The ole grinder is gonna remove all the bird turds, just so I can see what kinda crack(ing) I’m up against. Fortunately it’s just stamped steel and as long as it’s clean(and that’s probably the most critical aspect) it will weld up fine. Worst case, as you stated, remove the bracket put a good piece of steel under it, weld it, then weld the bracket. I’m seeing some possible gussets used as well.

 

I ground it down all the way through the welds, until I found all the cracks, running through the housing. It was basically, a horseshoe shaped crack around the bracket but was an inch away from the bracket in a couple spots. Drilled the ends out, except for one spot, where I couldn’t get a drill in there. Heated it and because I had it slicked down pretty good, nearly to the housing in most places, oil burnt out nicely. Started laying and stacking beads, all the way around. I’m sure you guys are more accomplished welders than me, but here she is. Flame away.

 

As always, I preciate ya’lls help and advice.

 

Took it for a drive to get the diff’s warm and see if any leaks sprung up and everything looks good. I do have some dampness around the power divider input seal. I don’t think the jack legs that did this cutoff tightened the yolk pinion nut to spec. I still don’t have a part number for the model of this axle or differential. I’m gonna replace the seal tomorrow and was wondering what you guys suggest I torque this nut to, after assembly? The nut takes a 2.25” socket, if that helps.