Lol why do that when I have you all ,beside they have delivery and a very non cooperative attitude.
Going for the Starter now. See that cable it got printed 2A on it, evry cable has it, no mistery here.![]()
Thermoking Evolution USB Connection
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by OTR--247, Sep 21, 2025.
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Just now.
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This guy's have no chance!
shatteredsquare Thanks this. -
Code 61? The description says your voltage is either too high or too low. Isn't that informative!
You need to download the R2 or R5 software and see what the sense voltage is. If it isn't the same as or close to the system voltage, and the system voltage shows the alternator clearly charging, then you have a broken sense wire. I screwed around with mine for a solid week before I finally gave up and took it to Thermo King. They ran a bypass on the mother board so it doesn't need to read the sense wire. Now it starts and runs fine.
Also, just as an FYI. Those two wires that come together at the negative terminal on the voltage regulator are the load control circuit. That is what makes your alternator switch off when the AC compressor is running. It also limits the alternator output under certain load conditions. It's a California emissions requirement that you can bypass if you have the heavy duty alternator. There are two different versions of the 120 amp alternator. The heavy duty one is the one with the orange voltage regulator. It's part number 452947. If you have that one you can disconnect those two load control circuit wires and run a jumper from the alternator ground to the voltage regulator ground. The documentation says not to do that, but oddly the same documentation has a diagram showing that wire in place. A TK dealer told me you can't bypass it on the cheaper alternator because it will burn out the voltage regulator, but you can do it on the 452947. I did the bypass about six months ago and it has been working fine. Use at lease a 10 gauge wire.OTR--247 Thanks this. -
Got it running by Sunday. Bad weather on Saturday limited my move so I made new ground cables from alternator to common ground and from common ground to engine body/Starter support. Also remove the flimsy ground bolt of the Control box to cabin and put a 1/4 stainless bolt and run a ground cable to battery negative.
Couple shut down afterwards, fuel and oil and then everything ok. Alternator is putting out a charge of 28 up to 31 amps, not going down as it should for a lapse of 20 min. Batteries one year old and showing good voltage.
Any comments on the alternator outputs amps will be appreciated.
Scare to fry the batteries. -
Before I bypassed the sense circuit I was getting 14.3 volts to the batteries and I was replacing them about every 18 months. Now I'm getting 13.9 volts, which should be OK.
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That's an OK charge current right after it starts. Notice the voltage is only 13.2 volts. That'll climb to around 14 as the batteries recharge, then the charge current will drop, unless you are running accessories that need power.
OTR--247 Thanks this. -
5600 hours on it is good,I've got 12,000 hours on mine.
Mine will shut down when the batteries are reading 14.2 volts.OTR--247 Thanks this. -
A good alternative to dealer pricing is a company called thermobyproducts . Great customer service and decebt prices. Have everything for an apu . Oem and aftermarketOTR--247 Thanks this.
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