Mountain Driving Tips

Good posts. I learned how to go down a mountain with my Dad driving a early 50's GMC coal truck. He drove off the moutain the road they built so they could fix Monteagle the first time.I was about 5 years old. The truck had an inline six gas engine with 4 forwards with a 2 speed rear axle. He put it in low second at the top and we went down s-l-o-w. He would let it build up speed til that engine was screaming and then he would apply the brakes and bring it back down. I rode with him up and down that mountain many times and he never had a problem. When I started driving I always drove the same way he did on mountains. After the jakes came out I changed a little and let the jake do more of the work. The last job I had before I retired I could bring a 45000 coil off Monteagle in 8th gear and never touch the brakes unless I had to slow for traffic but you might say I'm a little more familiar with Monteagle than most drivers.

 

Always approach new mountains with extreme caution because you don't know what you are getting into. Slower is better. Testoterone is bad. You can always upshift one gear alot easier than downshifting or trying to. The yellow caution signs are a good indicator of speed. They were created by many Swift and JB Hunt drivers wrecking and lying about their speed They are usually 5-10 mph slower than necessary. But save that until you get experience on that particular hill and experience driving. New driver should be 10 mph below speed. Nobody will say a word.

Downshift to a gear so you are about 1600 rpm at your selected speed. Smaller engines with 7 or 8 speeds can rev higher. Like a beer delivery truck or such.
Use your jake brakes if you have them.

Very important on the braking. One, you want to keep it to a minimum.
Two, you are not in your car braking disc brakes steadily.
Someone posted before, you use what they call stab braking.
You brake until you are 5 mph under your selected speed. Release brakes so they can cool. Your speed builds back up to where you started. Brake again to drop your speed 5 mph. Release brakes to cool..... the purpose of this is it keeps the heat from rising too high on your drums and gives it a quick cool down period.
Constant braking will raise the temperature too high and the shoes start to melt, causing glazing on the drums. Too hot and the drums start contracting away from the shoes making braking less effective. This is when the runaway ramps come into play.

Try to keep your rpms below 1700. There is no reason for over taching if you have the right gear and use proper braking.

Never exceed your governed speed. It is hard on the engine valves.

I drove Monteagle a million times because I live near there. New drivers should go down it 35-45 mph depending on your weight.

Since I know it I can go down it in 8th gear, 55mph, taching 1600 and brake 3 minor times. The beginer will brake 40 times. It just takes do and learn. Just don't wreck in the process, lol.

I never smoked brakes but was taught off mountain to keep driving and stay off the brakes. You are dealing with metal, not wood. The wind helps cool them down. Stopping lets the heat stay concentrated and eventially transfers to the tires. Hence, fire!! Run like hell, lol.

 

You can go down a mountain a million times too slow, but only once too fast! This wisdom applies to off-ramps also.

 

you will always make it to the bottom of the mountain
its how you get there that matters
lots of good info on these posts

 

Aw c'mon, this is easy, go as fast as you can up the hill, then as soon as you get started down the hill, kick'er in nuetral and enjoy the ride

What? that idea won't work?





The best way to go down a Mtn:
1. TURN OFF THE ####### CB AND/OR IGNORE THE PEANUT GALLERY ON THE CB
2. Do what feels good to you, never let another driver tell you how fast to go down a mtn. grade
3. If the speed limit is 35, try to keep it under 30
4. Know your truck before you go in the mtn's, know what speed each gear tops out at (without hitting the redline)
5. select the gear from step 4 that best works for that speed and go one gear lower, after you've done it a few times, then you can try a higher gear
6. know what gear you want to be in before you start down the hill, unless your planning a weenie roast on your brakes, your not going to downshift while descending the hill
7. turn on your jakes, if you don't have jakes stay on the flatlands (I'm kidding)
8. Know what the optimal rpm range is for your jakes, most jakes do their best braking between 1700 and 2100 rpms, again this varies by truck. My old truck, the jakes worked best when it was parked, my new truck, the jakes work best anywhere above 1600, optimally about 1800.

 

If you are used to floating the gears, it is harder to float out of gear going down hill, if the truck starts to run up on you use the clutch to pop it out of gear.

 

"rule of thumb whatever gear you had to downshift into to climb you go one gear lower for the descent"

I never could make this rule work. 1/2 the time, you never climbed the grade, sometimes the grades are different depending on which way you are going, you have to shift a lot on most grades, and who remembers what gear(s) you used on the other side of the road, and how heavy you were, several days ago?

 

"you use what they call stab braking.
You brake until you are 5 mph under your selected speed. Release brakes so they can cool. Your speed builds back up to where you started. Brake again to drop your speed 5 mph. Release brakes to cool..... the purpose of this is it keeps the heat from rising too high on your drums and gives it a quick cool down period.
Constant braking will raise the temperature too high"

I heard, many years ago, that "stab braking" was best for an emergency stop if you don't have ABS (Anti-lock Braking System). Brake until the wheels almost lose traction, then release. I don't know who has the discipline to do that in a real emergency.

As to the hills, what I heard was that it was better to apply steady, lighter pressure, since the brakes heat up more slowly, and the brakes don't really cool much in the few seconds between harder applications.

Maybe what I heard was wrong . . . maybe there is no right answer. As long as you make it down safely, nobody is going to complain.

 

One poster here said it right...the concept of go down one less than you came up...I don't agree with as the grades on one side aren't identical to the opposing side. Plus, having a heavy load, it will depend on how the load is situated within the trailer. the load configuration can make the climb up more work on the engine, and the down grade can be just the opposite. so the concept is flawed due the variable involved.

My practice and preference, that I learned hauling fuel (truck/trailer...some think they are a set of doubles, but actually only one trailer)...STOP AT THE TOP...WHETHER THERE IS A "BRAKE INSPECTION AREA" OR NOT...STOP AT THE TOP.....Especially if you have never traveled the mountain before. By starting out in the bottom, and progressive shifting up to 5-7 mph below the truck speed limit (if applicable), or if no posted speed, use your best judgment and stay in YOUR COMFORT ZONE...as long as you stay focused and relaxed, you can better manage the grade.

As another poster said....turn off the CB, the radio, the CD player...eliminate any and all distractions to better maintain your focus on what you are doing. Watch and listen to the engine...if she is screaming----you will be screaming soon too! If she is purring...you maintain your composure as well!

Depending on the load configuration, and the type of brakes on the trailer..."stab braking" or "light,gentle, continual pressure" method will apply to the situation. You know your truck and how she brakes, respect your knowledge, and respect the road and its warnings.