Preparing for In-frame Please help!
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by 7mouths2feed, Sep 21, 2010.
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Drop the pan and check to see of the main bearings are good. By that I mean not fretting in their bores. That means the bearing bores are about wore out and you need to do an Out of frame complete overhaul.
I would also have someone cut the counterbores for the new liners so they fit tight and seal well. Figure about 3~500 bucks for that job. -
Thanks... kinda though so but i haven't really driven one in many years...
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Can you measure the liner protrusion and find out before they are cut?
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The first thing you need to do is buy the service manual! Money well spent!!!
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With over 1.3 million miles blow-by began to push seals and gaskets also started blowing some oil out of the exhaust. Rather than push her to the point of real damage I parked it awaiting time and $$$$$ to do the inframe.
This is the first thing I buy with anything I purchase. Thanks Official cummins shop manual was $150 which was paid back on the first repair I did shortly after getting the truck (cam follower gasket) Shop Price for 1 gasket $600+ My cost $85 plus the book. Yes sir money well spent.
I have read the manual from cover to cover and while I have rebuilt many gas engines they were never done inframe. I am somewhat confused on exact procedure for replacing the mains "In-Frame" Little clarification on this please. Thanks -
I'm not sure about the cummins, but all you do is take them 1 at a time, drop the main cap roll the bearing out, roll a new 1 in the top, replace the 1 in the cap tighten it back to spec. thats the general idea, i'm sure there are more specifics than that. also you might have to get creative and make a helper tool to push the old top-half bearing out and the new 1 in. I took a long narrow scraper and a little time with a grinder and some custom flexing it works like a charm.
7mouths2feed Thanks this. -
On a Cat and maybe this will work on a Cummins, but take a 1/4" bolt (fits in the oil hole) grind it down so its a little bit thinner than the bearing. Take the cap off, stick it in the hole, roll motor over by hand in the direction the bearing needs to go to come out. Out should come the bearing.
I've never tried this but its the way I was told.7mouths2feed Thanks this. -
It sounds like it would work, but I dont like rolling the engine over once it is apart, but that is just me. but if you got all the packs out and the only thing you are turning is the crank then I see no issue. just my .02 and I'm not the most experienced with cummins. (I bleed yellow! or did until 2008!)
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just like les said--used to use a brake bolt tho and cut the head vertically in half--then grind down the rest of the head nice and smooth--pop cap off -put in oil hole and role over the engine--just do one at a time
hardest part will be finding a brake bolt as i dont think too many people rebuild their own brakes anymore--so probabely go with just a 1/4 inch bolt7mouths2feed Thanks this.
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