Oilchange fullsyntetic

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by gerardo1961, Jan 9, 2011.

  1. Pablo-UA

    Pablo-UA Road Train Member

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    Borispol, Ukraine
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    but US truck manufacters recomend mineral oil, and as I can see average American engine life is over million miles.

    What can I say about company trucks I work on. They use syntetic oil for more then 5 years and I see only two things are better now. Easy engine start when it is really cold and longer turbine life. We use Shell Rimula Ultra 5w30, full syntetic. Yeah, we have twice longer oil change interval, but as I can see we got less turbine failures with syntetic oil. I cant say this oil saves bearings, cams, cylinders, becouse we operate Mercedes OM501LA engine (440 HP) for 7 years and mechanical engine faults are rare and do not related with oil quality. On other trucks with Schwizer Turbochargers we get twice more turbine issues with mineral oil. It is true.
     
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  3. Jigsaw

    Jigsaw Light Load Member

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    Oct 12, 2010
    Colorado Springs, Co
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    I have to agree I was one to go back to regular oil. Always used Mobil DelVac. C-15 CAT- never had oil leak till I changed to syn. oil. I didn't even put 6000 miles on the syn. b4 going back. What a waste of good money.:biggrin_25510:
     
  4. Cowpie1

    Cowpie1 Road Train Member

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    I have used synthetics in a lot of my personal vehicles, farm equipment, and trucks for several years. Have never had the problems mentioned here. For my current ISX, I have gotten the best results so far not using a full synthetic, but instead, a 50% synthetic blend. My ag tractor has full synthetic, my Jeep Liberty Diesel has full synthetic, my JD riding lawn mower has full synthetic in it. I do use full synthetic gear lube in my transmission and diffs.

    Regarding extending oil drains, there is no real benfit to using a synthetic if you don't extend your drains. The cost is not worth it if you are going to keep oil change intervals small. The statements that frequent oil changes are the only way to go to keep you engine in good shape is not totally accurate. Keeping the oil clean (which can be done using bypass filter) and a strong additive package in the oil protect the engine, whether it is dino or synthetic. If it is true that frequent oil changes are the only way to go, then why don't these advocates change their oil every week? I change mine between 25,000 and 30,000 miles... my last oil sample showed 8 ppm iron, 1 ppm lead, and less than .1 ppm soot, and viscosity at 14.3 on the oil out of an EGR engine with 640,000 miles on it. That is as good or better than engines a lot younger than mine. Took my last engine, N-14, to over 1.4 million miles doing 30,000 mile oil changes and it never was opened up except to do overheads, and still only used 1 gallon of oil every 7-8000 miles and averaged around 7 mpg. I'll admit it was stupid to get rid of it.

    And I get my 50% synthetic blend cheaper than most can buy straight dino oil. I get it for $9 a gallon delivered FREE to my house and my used oil hauled away for free as well. Allied Oil and Supply is my dealer.

    But to each his own. I have no issue what others do. I like the results from the what I am doing. Others have to decide for themselves what they are comfortable with. There is no one size fits all solution.
     
    heavyhaulerss Thanks this.
  5. 07-379Pete

    07-379Pete Crusty Commando-Pete

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    Campbellsville, Ky
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    The full synthetic oil is nothin more than mineral oil refined down more. The "Full synthetic and synthetic blend" is a play on words with the oil company's. A true synthetic oil is man made. Unless something has been added synthetic oil will be clear in color. Look on the oil jug and if it says "Made with domestic and imported products" odds are its nothing more than oil.

    Caveat emptor......... Latin, Let the buyer beware.
     
  6. Cowpie1

    Cowpie1 Road Train Member

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    Kellogg, IA
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    Well, you are shooting around the target but you didn't quite hit the bullseye.

    True, most of the "synthetics" on the shelves are Group III, or highly refined (hydrocracked) mineral oils. Shell Rotella, Castrol, etc fit into this category. Most "blends" are Group III synthetic and Group II mixes in various percentages. Schaeffer is the only one I am aware of that blends a Group IV and Group II+ for their mix.

    However, Group IV synthetics (the true synthetics for the purists on the forum) are made from Natural Gas. They are not "man made" as such. Natural gas can be the base for oil, diesel, gasoline, anhydrous ammonia, etc. It has a very uniform molecular structure that is the characteristic of Group IV synthetics. The top end Mobil 1 and Mobil Delvac, Amsoil, Royal Purple, and other boutique synthetics are primarily Group IV. Though, truth be told, they also have a percentage of Group III in them.

    If you ask most any Tribologist, they will state that the so-called gap between Group III and Group IV oil base stocks is getting smaller all the time. Most Group III synthetics offer almost the same quality of Group IV, but can do so at a lower cost. Most users out here in the real world would hardly be able to see any difference. Then there is the classification of Group II+ to further complicate the mix.

    You are correct that a "true" synthetic will be clear in color, but you have to remember that ANY oil, be it a synthetic or not, has to have the additive package also. That is what gives it a "color". And the Group III base stock is clear as well, even though it started out as a mineral oil. Doubt me? Then stop on in at any one of Warren Distribution oil facilities and have them show you some Group III base stock. I know the one near me in Council Bluffs, IA will gladly show you some.

    For your class assignment, find out who makes most of the additive packages for virtually every engine oil on the market. Then, class, we will have a test on Friday. (hint: their name starts with an "I")
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2011
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