Sporadic Starting Problems

Connect a VOmeter in line with the positive battery cable, set the meter to read current, any thing over 200 mili amp will draw down the batteries,

 

I put a battery shut off switch on two of my trucks. About $50 bucks a truck-30 for the switch, 20 for another short 4/0 cable. Installed between the frame and the negative terminal. No more worries about the batts drawing down.

 

This thread is a year old, I think its fair to say its repaired by now and you can stop offering suggestions on how to repair it.

 

Do ya think ?

 

Yes but there was a new question.

 

there was a new question, and if you dont find the thread helpful dont comment! Thanks to all you guys giving suggestions!

 

I'm still having the clicking. Have replaced ignition, push button, magneto switch on firewall, all batteries, starter and selenoid. This has cost me a ton but still the #### clicking. I have an older Freightliner Classic (98). A mechanic told me to run a cable from the negative battery side directly to the starter, in lieu of the ground wires. Will this work? I'm at the end of my rope with this problem.

 

Do you have access to a dvom (digital volt ohm meter)? I can tell you how to check it. You will need an assistant as well.

 

This a copy and past from an older thread.



Before you change the starter you need to check it. By checking voltage drop on the ground and positive side. It's an easy check if you have a dvom (digital volt ohm meter) it has to be digital. It helps to have help or a remote starter switch.
This is how it works you place one lead of the dvom on the positive post of the bat and the other one the positive post of the starter. Yes both lead are on the positive make sure you are on the posts and not the cable. Hit the starter watch the meter. Should be no more than .5 volts reading. Do the same for the ground side. Again no more than .5 volts. What you're doing is checking the resistance of the wiring and connections under load. A dvom has 10,000 ohms internal resistance power should not want to travel through it.
If you have more than .5 volts you then take the leads and go from post to cable or the two ends of the same cable. Check ever connection you will find the trouble spot. It may be as easy as cleaning the connection at the starter.
If you have a bad connection changing the starter may fix because you have the connection apart but you did not need a starter.
I had a no crank the other day when I checked it the meter was reading 8.6 volts. That means less than 4 were getting to the stater. It was the lug at the starter removed it cleaned it, it did not look to bad, reinstalled it. Fires right up.
Hope this makes sense it may save the cost and agrivation of replacing the starter.