Just installed my new radio and it got me thinking. I was furnished with a heavy duty power cable because of the extra power of having the rfx75. Yet I'm wiring that heavy duty power cable to the same wires in the truck meant for cb radios and those wires are 16 gauge and the power cable is 12 gauge. Would I be better off running my power cables elsewhere rather than using the stock hook up in the truck and if so where? Somewhere directly in the fuse block maybe? Or does it even matter and the stock hookup wires are sufficient?
Another thing I noticed is the ground wire on this heavy duty cable is fused as well as the power. I read something about freightliner trucks being positive grounded and that this is a good idea. If that's the case what problems could arise from not having a cable like this?
power wires
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by deerslayer1143, Apr 3, 2011.
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You could use the stock wires but to get the most out of it I would run the positive to the battery and the neg to the closest (good) ground spot.
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Run new wiring...Thats why they gave you new wires...Your new radio is going to need more amps to run, now that you had that RFX75 added on...If you use the factory wiring, you take a chance on the wires getting too Hot trying to supply enough current to the radio...and next thing you know, you could be sitting on the side of the road, watching the Fire Dept. squirting water all over your Rig!
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That's what I'm saying. I'd have to run new supply wires from the fuse block to hook the new power cable to otherwise the new power cable is useless hooking it to the stock 16 gauge that runs in the truck.
Actually being mounted on the dash like mine is the power cable itself will reach the fuse block eliminating the set of wires it's currently hooked to and have one less connection joint making it even better as far as any possible power loss in the connection.
Just wonder what I should run off of in the fuse block especially if my freightliner is a positive ground vehicle like I'm hearing. Correct me if I'm wrong but you wouldn't want to run the ground wire to say a chassis ground then would you? What would you hook the ground to. Like I said the ground wire on this power cable is fused as well as the power wire. I would have to trace the 2 existing wires in that cubby hole up above to see where they run and that's not as easy as it sounds with all the fricken wiring being yellow. How stupid is that? There's a #### ton of yellow wires in that fuse block on the passenger side dash and it's not like they are labeled cb feed etc.
Guess the worst that could happen is blow the in line fuses tho.
I guess my main question here is this: What does the ground wire hook to in a positive grounded vehicle? If I had the answer to this I woudn't need to trace 2 yellow wires in a maze of nothing but yellow wires! Anyone know for sure? I really don't care to experiment to learn the hard way.
I just stumbled across the positive ground thing in freightliners by accident when researching why my new power cable has a fuse in the ground wire. Just another reason tho hate these trucks like I didn't have enough already.
Please boss! Buy me a Pete! lol
I'm going to have to assume that no one here has a clue what I'm talking about so off to research land I go.Last edited: Apr 3, 2011
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The best place in any radio install is direct to the battery with hot & ground. With fuses on both leads close to the battery.
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If your Freightshaker is indeed positive ground, a stock Cobra 25 compensates for this by having its chassis ground isolated from the circuit board by a bunch of capacitors, which block the DC. In that case, you'd hook the RED wire to Ground and the Black wire to Hot in the vehicle.
Before you do that, though, check it with your DC voltmeter. Put the meter's black wire on chassis ground, or the shell of the cigarette lighter, etc., and the red probe to someplace that's got "hot" power, like the center pin of the lighter. If the meter swings to the right, or if the digital meter shows +, then it's negative ground like the rest of the world, except some old Macks and White Western fire engines I used to work in years ago.
I'm looking, even as we speak/write/type, to see if I can find anything in the Powerband specs, or to find an actual schematic, to see if it is also capable of positive ground operation. It may not be.
It would be a shame to have the RFX75 serve as a big fuse to prove that, though.
I am concerned because the coax shields go to DC ground on the board of the host radio, though.
Lemme research a bit and I'll get back again.
BTW, figure on 10 gauge wires to go to the battery and ground to handle the current that radio/amp combination will draw on TX. Even if the smaller gauge wire might not catch fire, the voltage drop through the high resistance of too-small wire would make a substantial dent in your power output.
Back to researching,
-- Handlebar --
p.s. Maybe someone else can weigh in on the polarity of a 'Shaker's electrical system? -
Perhaps this is what I'm looking for...
https://www.gijoesradioelectronics.com/Images/Cb%20Radio,%2010%20meter%20radio%20and%20amplifier%20hook%20up%20information.htm
Still doesn't answer my question of the freightliner's ground system tho.
Ah I see you're on it too handlebar. Maybe truck country could answer that for me?
Jeff out at truck country is looking into that as we speak and will have an answer for me shortly.
Like you said handlebar I'm going to run 8ga wire direct to the battery. It's just a question of which wire to which terminal now. I should have that answer shortly. -
That looks like pretty handy stuff. With the odd color codes in the overhead wires, it sounds like they leave it up to the user to determine which is hot and not. At any rate, the red on the Cobra is hot, whether it's positive or negative.
Still looking at the RFX.
-- Handlebar -- -
could that info you provided on the 25s be the reason I'm having problems receiving/transmitting with the rfx75 installed on that 25 and if so how can I overcome that? I saw all those capacitors you're talking about. on that radio.
At this point I'm more concerned getting my new radio setup right first tho and deal with that 25 later. It powers up and I get squelch noise and the light changes from receive to transmit but no audio or movement of the needle. -
Crisis averted -- looks like everything is still coupled to ground by capacitors on this schematic for the RFX:
http://www.cbtricks.com/miscellaneo...band/rfx_75/graphics/rfx75_schematic_rev4.pdf
So the firemen should be able to stay in the station.
Also, an old hand told me back when I first started, "Don't put the fuses any farther from the battery than the section of power wire you want to pay to replace yourself."
I usually put a really big fuse at the battery to protect against dead shorts to the "big red", and properly-rated fuses closer to the radio where they're convenient to get to if something goes awry in the radio itself.
HTH,
-- Handlebar --
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