Ummm.....just cuz I've done it myself on the 29 NW xx xx ..... Is this with the stock mic, or the custom-wired RK56 you had made for it?
Meter switch is in the S/RF position and not one of the other positions?
RF Gain pot is all the way up? Mic gain pot is up at least halfway?
Any chance you've got the WX receiver switched on instead of CB?
"No audio or movement of the needle" in which mode, TX or RX?
(I've done *all* those things myself and kicked myself after chasing problems that weren't there. Iatrogenic illnesses, as we used to say in my former profession.)
-- Handlebar --
power wires
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by deerslayer1143, Apr 3, 2011.
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Sorry for the confusion... talking 2 different radios here. The 25 is the one with no audio or needle movement. The one I put the RFX75 on myself. Let's put that aside for the moment and deal with my new 29 and the low power being put to it in the freightliner.
Update: Truck Country's electrical guy says hook it up the normal way. Red to positive and black to negative. Can I do that in the fuse block buy hooking up to the huge red wire coming in to a big terminal labeled BAT? and if so where would the ground go? -
I have to run over to my daughters for a while for my grandson's birthday. I'll be back a little later and maybe you can help figure a work around to that dc ground problem with the 25's you were telling me about handlebar.
Thanks!
Maybe I could tie those coax shields into the black ground wire that goes to the back of the DC terminal rather than on the board? -
Yes, BAT lead is ideal, if you can make a low-resistance connection to it. Ground can be picked up at any place connected to whatever the black lead from the battery is hooked to. Any gauges and stuff that aren't mechanical will be hooked to some sort of ground in the dash. Got any shiny bolt heads or round-head Phillips screws going into the shell of the cab that you can meter? Either look for zero ohms from those points to the battery ground, or put your meter's red lead on the BAT point and, set to DC Volts, use your meter to find an accessible point that makes the meter show your battery voltage.
If there's a lighter jack on the dash, see where its ground is fastened to. Those draw a lot of current, and both the hot and ground paths have to be pretty skookum to pass current, or the current will be limited by the "crappier" conductor (to use the technical term).
It's worth actually metering stuff in case your truck uses 24 volts to start.
At this point, I've kinda shot my figurative wad, cuz I don't have any specifics on your truck's layout. Most of the folks I see are running barefoot.
-- HB --deerslayer1143 Thanks this. -
Thanks for the help in this unusual problem handlebar. I'm going to run out to work and rewire my new radio's power.
In the meantime if you could figure out a work around to the 25's DC ground problem I would be forever in your debt.
Like I said earlier would it be possible to wire those 2 shields to the black ground wire that goes to the back of the power switch? This is DC ground and in my mind that should work but maybe I'm missing something. -
What Freightliner is it?
The fuse block under the dash on the right of Columbia's have hot lugs
you can tie 12gaX3/8 connectors to.The grounding point is just below there
as well.
There is no reason to go to the battery for radio power on any Freightliner
That 12ga wire they sell at WalMart is plenty good enough for any radio installhandlebar Thanks this.
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