This is the 13,500 commercial unit isn't it?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dometic-477...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4ab622c838
So a heat strip and interior panel is all that is needed from here?
Martin
Rooftop AC
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by SHC, Mar 29, 2012.
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I'll probably jinx myself but, I have a Coleman Roughneck on a 90"
Double Eagle that's over 7 years old and have had to replace the fan motor once. A buddy has a Carrier roofmount and has 0 problems and as much as he sits around that's a testimony to the unit's dependability.
Only drawback I find with the Coleman is I think it's ugly.SHC Thanks this. -
Neither Dometic or Coleman come complete and require a lower unit from the factory. They both require about 15 amp AC and 16 amps heat strips.
I've been assured that my 3500 gen w 35 amp breaker would be more them enough to supply power to the rooftop. I'm using a 10 ga wire to supply power.
I was told that the Dometic comes heat strip ready with only one controller, about $60 for 5600 btu heat strip
However, It was to my understanding that the Coleman have 2 different lower control units, one that is designed to control the heat strip and one that doesn't.
I would have looked at a Carrier rooftop, but Carrier no longer sells it.
Like I said before, Dometic is what is used on most RV's and the majority of tour buses and I can get it serviced easier. -
I put a proheat ice on my W900L about 2 yrs after I bought it in 98 it was the smartest thing I have done, truck does not idle ever. /I did not like their a/c unit so installed a coleman rooftop, lost the top cover after only a few months so custom fabricated a new one. Finally last year the engine threw a rod after 1 yrs of service. I immediately replaced it with a new model now made by Carrier and put a new rooftop (also Carrier) on at the same time. This new model now has battery monitor, temp monitor as well as comfort monitor. I can park the truck for a month and when the voltage drops off or the temp dips the unit starts and runs for 2 hours then shuts down so truck is always warm and charged ready to go.
When you put a proper APU on the truck driver quality of life on the road is vastly improved. I would never go without, I always have power for my microwave, toaster, George Forman and even my coffee maker. If i had a fleet every truck would have one as they pay for themselves in reduced fuel consumption and reduced maintenance by all but eliminating idle time from the engine. tom -
Think we have the idea of an APU or generator down Tom, but thanks anyways!

Handy info on the rooftop ac unit though, sounds like the Dometic commercial is the way forward at this point huh?
Here is a quote I got for a Dometic rooftop commercial:
Dometic 477915 13,500 BTU Commercial Grade Air Conditioner Upper Unit... $530.20 Dometic 3107206.017 ADB Kit with Manual Controls Polar White... $69.95 Dometic 3101121.030 Heating Kit For Non-Ducted Models... $51.90
Pretty good price IMO, but have shipping on top of those figures of course.
Martin -
excellent price I think my new CARRIER low profile cost me over $900.00 up here, I have been runnin rooftop for 12 yrs, the biggest thing was cutting yhe hole in the roof in just the right place so as to not interfere with either the cab lights on the roof or the flourescent light inside. Make sure you fill the area between the two layers of roof with spray foam insulation this will strengthen the roof around the hole so you don't have any cracking problems later. tom
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Granted I have a Western Star and there is absolutely no roof support other then (2) 1.5" channels. The fiberglass is 1/4" thick and in no way strong enough to support a 100 lb rooftop.
If I am not mistaken, you will need to build up under the roof 1.5", so you might need to fabricate a spacer.
In my case, I reinforced the roof last summer in preparation for the day the under the bunk unit died. Maybe the following link might help someone.
http://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...-star-forum/152961-sleeper-headliner-fyi.html
Just a side note, the screws around the 14" hole is for the roof vent.
The aluminum sheet is 1/8" and has 3 rows of RV sealant under between the roof and the aluminum sheeting. -
Thanks guys.
I will have to look at the roof construction when I make the cut, so to speak.
It's a 2006 Columbia if anyone knows off hand though.
I have access to everything I need in my shop, and if I don't have some raw material, can get it within an hour or so at a local machine shop. I thought long and hard about the aluminum sheet, but will see how it looks when I get there. And with the house, the kids clubhouse and the shop, I always have spray foam around somewhere!
Martin -
Take lots of pictures... we like pictures!
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Isn't a Columbia a condo ?
I have recently seen where someone professionally cut and fabricated (finished) into the condo roof and recessed a rooftop into it. I think that is extreme and would rather modify a rooftop by turning the compressor 90 degrees and mounting the unit on the back wall.
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