Need spec help for an OTR KW

If you want reliability, stay away from automatics. You can move the gears with your hand, or you can let expensive electronics move them for you. Your arm is much more reliable than the electronics!

Overall it sounds like you made up your mind. My advice to you still stands, do not compromise. Forget weight requirements, this is your investment, your truck. Companies should not have any say in an owner operators spec to be honest with you. It's infringing on your right to have what you want, it's just another way to control you, as a driver.

Let us know what you ordered!

 

If I were you I'd go with a truck similarly spec'd to your company. I would go with a T800, 62 or 72in aerocab, ISX500, 13spd, 3:70 rears, 22.5 tires. I think in the end run, a KW spec'd with a 86in or even a 72in studio would be too heavy for the loads you suggest. One way to find out is to do what Tank33 said and take a couple of those trucks and see what they weigh. I think a W900L studio would be close to 20K and a 72in studio would be close to 18K. Good luck.

KH

 

I don't see how you're going to lose weight with those specs. First you're probably adding weight with more emissions, then you're going with a heavier sleeper, a longer frame (especially if you go with a w900) and a heavier transmission. There is only so much weight to lose with aluminum parts, and the price skyrockets after a while. I wouldn't consider an aluminum frame for a lot of reasons. The company truck you have is a pretty light truck. Also remember that's with 20 or 30 gallons of fuel at the kenworth plant. It also only has the 100 gallon tanks. Diesel fuel weighs about 8 lbs per gallon. The company truck may already have a lot of light parts on it.

I'm pretty sure it's only Kenworth that made disc brakes mandatory. All of the manufacturers have to comply with new stopping distance laws. That means bigger and heavier brakes, yet more added weight compared to the company truck.

 

If you are working with a knowledgeable sales person at the KW dealer, they can and should run you several trucks with different spec's so you can have all the information to make the best decision for you. Local dealer here had a salesman that could build you a pretty truck, but not really what you needed - not good if that's who you have to work with; go somewhere else! Find someone who gets into the spec's to get you what you need, not asks you what color you like and how much chrome you want! It is very informative to run spec's and see what difference a few things can make insofar as weight (and money) and you need this to make the correct decision. Don't be timid to ask, 'cause some of these guys may have been selling washing machines last week and would like to sell you what is on the lot without a lot of questions that make them look like an idiot!

Trying to get the ideal truck is going to be a challenge and involve compromise. I would say to you to try to keep the tare weight down within reason; you may be "in the door" with this customer now, but what will happen if at some time a hauler knocks on your customer's door and says "I can scale loads of 500, 1000, or 1500 lbs more than the haulers you now use for the same money", what may happen? I'm sorry, but you don't want your big, handsome tractor sitting still because you can't compete? Also, if this scenario doesn't work out, how flexible would your truck be for other uses, be that tanker or otherwise?

And, if an aerodynamic truck serves your needs better then you may need to put looks aside (not trying to argue, just make a point). Might be easier to work under a long hood and looks are "in the eye of the beholder", but you do realize that 6 mpg versus 6.5 mpg at $4.00 per gallon, 100,000 miles per year, is over $5000 in a year?! And is it not easier to put maximum weight on the steer with a set-back axle? Manueverability and visibility better too? Have a T6, T8, and W9 built on paper and see where that leads you. Never too much information!

I have heard no news about drum brakes being "gone"; FrtLman, you sure of that? Larger drum brakes can (as I understand) meet the updated stopping requirements. Discs are recommended particularly if you run in mountainous areas due to their better fade resistance. I have talked with Hendrickson and they still recommend drums on trailers if for no other reason than the longer warranty coverage of drums over discs (their words - "discs not quite there yet"). Don't get me wrong, I very much like the idea of discs; anything to help you slow/stop that rig is to me money well spent!! Can you think of anything more important than stopping??

Bet I have p-o'ed some folks off and didn't mean to! Your truck, your money - your decision! Lotsa luck to you!

 

Here is what I would do and I specd out some trucks that gained almost a 1500 lbs in cargo weight in 2000 for my boss. Get rid of the Dual Tanks for Fuel Mount a Single 150 Gallon tank on the Truck. Next go to Super Singles Lighter than Duels and saves you about 400 Lbs over all. Next 72 Sleeper would be Fine we had 70 inch Condos and carried the extra Cargo. Smaller Engine will save you almost 1200 Lbs alone. Yes the HP is nice but can you spare the extra half a ton in cargo. Alum Hubs all the Way around along with Composite Springs will save you the Rest of the Weight.

 

This is more or less a thread of disagreeing views, but take what you wish from each reply.

I will say again, your spending a ton of money here. If something happens where your company is out bid by another carrier who has lighter equipment to haul more payload, that isn't going to be the fault of a few guys. There is never a shortage of work in trucking, that much is certain. Get yourself a truck spec'd like I suggested, and you can do any kind of work. Dry van, refrigerated, flat deck, double drop, you name it.

Do not spec a truck with one fuel tank. This is extremely annoying and if you ever switch jobs, get a long run, or try to sell the truck, have fun with that one fuel tank.

Guys who bend and follow the company standards like sheep are only hurting themselves. Your doing what the carrier says you should do, with your own truck. You are hauling MORE PRODUCT, FOR THE SAME MONEY! Why would YOU, make your truck LIGHTER, so that YOU, can haul MORE PAYLOAD, for the SAME MONEY?! Don't kid yourself, if the company was to get a little more money to fit on a little more freight, you don't get that money. The company owner goes home to his family, big house and 2 vehicles, happy because he can haul 1,500 pounds more per truck. Meanwhile you, the guy stuck on the road, is living in a small sleeper, in a truck you aren't proud of, just for this guy. Nothing in it for you, you just lose lose lose.

If you spec your truck only to do one job, what happens if that company goes broke? What if you find a really good carrier elsewhere, but you can't do the work because your truck isn't spec'd for anything except exactly what you were doing before. Get yourself a good, general, all around spec like I described, and you can work anywhere, and do any length of haul.

 

Tank we still ran 70 inch Freightliner Condo Sleepers Still had 430/470 Detroits in the Trucks with these Specs Trucks prior where Cats. Units had the Range to go 1000 Miles and that is Plenty for a Solo between Fuel Stops. Revenue with the New Specs was about 3K Higher per 1500 Miles so about 20 Cents more per Mile so he was happy with the Revene he made. Those drivers in them WERE VERY HAPPY as they got 5 CPM more as Pay.

 

Eatons website has a calculator on it. You plug in trans, tire size and rpm. It will give you road speed.

 

Lil addition to sdp's post
http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@roadranger/documents/content/ct_062746.swf