99 dodge 2500

If you're talking about the motor...

1. Pyrometer.
2. Boost gauge.
3. Free flowing exhaust
4. Free flowing air filter
5. Auxiliary supply pump and FASS


If you have an auto:

temperature gauge, deep pan cooler pan, very large auxiliary trans cooler, multi-clutch torque converter

Rear end: Aluminum cover with cooling fins.

 

You should already have boost pyro and trans gauges in your truck. For more power and fuel economy id say go with a larger turbo (possibly compound twins), head studs, 5" turbo back exhaust, set of 75 horse injectors (ddp, or bd stay away from industrial injection), an aux trans cooler (nothing that says ats either) run 75w140 in the rear diff you should be good temp wise on that. But upgrading to a new dana 70/80 10 bolt cover would be wise or a magnetic drain plug. Also when you pull the cover next time check the pattern on your ring and pinion. Next time i change the fluid in mine the rearends coming out and a different posi's going in but check your pattern dont wanna lose a ring and pinion going down the road.

 

I'd worry more about what damage loading a 37' trailer would do unless you're talking about pulling a 37 foot RV .

 

^^What he said.

 

I think hes talking about pulling loads with the 37 foot trailer if hes loading a 37ft trailer on a 40ft trailer with a single rear wheel he needs to be more worrid about the fine hes going to get for being over on his drive axle. I scale out with about 4500 on my drive with my 3/4 and 40ft trailer empty. With tandems at the 22ft mark from the start of the deck.

 

What are you hauling - Smartcars or VW bugs ? Max towing capacity is a little over 14,000 lbs. What does your trailer weigh ? You're really putting a load on that rear axle . Put a couple of full size cars or pickups on it and run it across a CAT scale .