The PL-259 contacts the underside of the mount. I was under the impression that the PL-259 should contact, while the stud should NOT contact. Am I correct here?
Additionally, I tested for continuity across the door hinges and they provide a perfectly good ground for the door, so no additional grounding should be required.
I see. I didn't notice any distinct issues with my old setup. I only changed it because it was haphazard and haphazardly installed. Base-loaded steel whip antenna with an old corroded aluminum mount, fed by 9 feet of coax that wasn't very well routed. I was told that too short of a coax can affect performance and SWR.
What does it mean... (SWR issues content)
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by volvo244t, Mar 29, 2013.
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Well I don't get this at all.
Disconnecting the ground strap entirely results in the SWR dropping to 3-3.5.
Is it possible that the wrong kind of coax could cause this? I'm using Mini-8. Coax says "Mini 8/U Type #3050 RoHS" on the side of it. It's American made, not Chinese. I'm starting to wonder if I should just use RG-58 instead. -
So.
I'm standing in the Pilot in Clear Lake, IA. I notice that Truck Spec Terminator II "poor man's big coily antenna" is $20 off. I said, what the hell, and bought it.
Tossed it on. SWR on channel 20...wait for it...1.4. After a bit of tuning, I've got it down to 1.2. We'll see if it holds. Everything's wet right now, with my luck, that'll make a difference somehow. -
And what do you know? All is dry, SWR is back at 6+. What the #### gives!?
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Maybe the water was making up a ground that you need. I have seen this before so maybe some more grounding is in order as long as it's done right ?
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I didn't think grounding issues could cause a 5+ increase in SWR, but I'm down to try almost anything at this point. Thinking of running a nice long line from the mount down to the battery box. Should be a good ground, seeing how that's bolted to the frame right next to where the batteries ground to the frame. And it's quick 'n easy to undo...
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That is the wrong the kind of ground.....the long wire to the battery box. You can have good electrical continuity but a poor rf ground. Thus the need for good, braided bonding straps. Your antenna needs to "see" the whole truck frame as its ground plane. I'm not a tech, and can't explain this in technical terms, but the fact it worked good in the rain and not when it is dry is evidence you need to do more "bonding", not just grounding. Flat braided bonding straps work the best. It didn't used to be a problem on the old trucks, but it is on the new ones, cars as well. For several years now all the Crown Vics have had braided wire bonding straps on the trunks of all the police cars as standard police package equipment. The materials modern vehicles are made out of not conducive to good radio performance.........not enough good solid metal in vehicles any more.
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So, I got a flatbraid and ran it from the mount to one of the torx bolts behind the sun visor, per the advice of WalcottCB. SWR went from 6+ to 2.5-3. Then I tested a new coax, just ran it through the window and let it lay out in the cab. 18ft Mini-8 from WalcottCB. SWR was 1.2-1.3 again.
Then I routed it into the cab and up to the radio, and it jumped up to 2.5-3. Once again, the excess coax is NOT coiled. I just let it loose up behind the radio.
Anyone have a brick wall I can smash my head on a few times?Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
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Would grounding the radio itself make any significant difference?
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There seems to be to much variance with respect to how the coax is positioned. That would indicate the coax has become part of the antenna, which means it has turned the shield of the coax into a ground element of sorts.. This could be because there just isn't enough of a ground reference with respect to where the antenna is mounted and the coax is being forced to more or less function as a ground element instead of balance line.. I would concentrate on grounding the mount to the door hinge if it's metal try going from the mount to the top of the mount and then from the bottom of the hinge to metal on the frame. making sure that all connections are shiny clean down to the bare metal and keep the jumpers or wire short and neat.. The idea is to establish an RF ground that won't function as part of the antenna and wont become a tuned circuit to ground.. I know that sounds odd but it's possible to make the match/SWR worse with the wrong kind of grounding method..
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