Considering WS for next ride..

Can PM it to those that need it to see for the brackets etc. No problem.
Tweaking the generator right now, it was too close to the fairings for comfort. Then onto the wiring etc.
Found the Carling switches here BTW:http://stores.ebay.com/New-Wire-Marine?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
Martin

 

We saw the "EJECT!" switch, and laughed about that one!
Thanks for the genset comments, but most of the apu units I have seen, start at $8K, and go up from there!
The Honda EU3000is is $1999.
Rooftop AC is @$750
Battery charger @$40 from Sears.
Outdoor wiring, GFI socket, steel and aluminum, and so on, maybe $200.
For the outlay, ye cant beat it IMHO. The rooftop units just flat out work whatever the temperature outside.
The EU3000 uses @2 gallons of gas for 12hrs of AC, and I will order the wireless remote start/stop for it after I leave out, so will be super convenient, again.

Martin

 

The bag brackets look like normal L brackets with gussets in them. Not seen a "normal" setup, so cant compare to it, but I would imagine they use the same style bracket with a short outrigger for a single bag?

Martin

 

Hardwood floor installed, in 100 degree temperatures!
Got the strobes wired in to a dash switch, so they are done.
Now to run the electrical stuff (GFI socket, battery charger, inverter), then make a board to mount the exhaust for the ac unit in one of the windows.
The end is near, kinda. Well it has to be near, gotta leave Sunday to load a Jaguar 980 in Omaha heading to Buckeye, Az.

Martin

 

Floor done.
Wiring all done.
Few random pics of todays work....
Bolts in the floor are for a passenger seat, so one can be bolted in if needed. They are covered by the dog bed normally though, which goes right where the seat would.




Power inverter, battery charger wired into it to maintain batteries when the generator is running, or plugged into shore power. GFI socket runs straight to the generator, and can be unplugged from the generator to run everything from a plug in etc.
I do the rooftop AC the same way, with an adapter cable to allow me to plug it into shore power and stay cool for free!


Martin

 

A box headache rack would be in the way on the outside, and a top cabinet would be in the way on the inside.
9200BTU's will not keep a big sleeper/cab cool in 100 degree plus sun. My old 13,500BTU would just maintain 70 degrees inside the truck, in 120 degree direct sunshine. I see they have a 13,500 "high capacity" unit too... no doubt for more $$$.
Still need a 14"x14" hole, but the thing hangs off the back, instead of sitting on top which is stronger as gravity is helping it stay there.
Simple fact of the matter is, hot air rises, cold air falls, thus an air conditioner on the roof is always going to be the most efficient one out there.
How much are those backwall systems anyways? Anyone know?
A rooftop unit can be removed, and a low profile RV roof fan installed in its place too. I would love for there to be other viable options, but not seen any yet...

Martin