So,I'm not exactly new to heavy and OD loads, but honestly, I worked for ATS and Lone Star, so my trucks have always come fully equipped. Just sign for the equipment and go. I've got a few questions as to how I should set my truck up. My biggest problem is the beacon light. I know a lot of states require them to be visible from 360 degrees unless blocked by the load, and well, I just dont have anywhere to mount it. The truck is 379 and it's spec'ed well - double frame, 525 N14, 18, heavy driveline, 277 wb, frame ramps, but was used to pull a reefer before I got my mitts on it. I guess I'm just looking for any tips/tricks/ideas you guys can give me to help make setting this truck up as efficient a process as possible, also, input on the beacon light is more than welcome because I'm at a loss for how to make it visible from 360. I see a lot on the mirrors, but I would have to track down a second light to make that work, right?
Truck set up
Discussion in 'Heavy Haul Trucking Forum' started by mg1224, Jan 26, 2014.
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Headache rack mount?
Pipe mount from frame ?
Beacon light brackets for cab roof, sleeper sides?
It's your choice how you want to do it. Google can bring you a lot of pictures
Halogen, strobe or LED light? I do not recommend strobes, unless you like CB radio interference. -
Usually, that 360 degree requirement is referring to the trailer beacon. Put a couple decent ones on your mirror brackets, and get a 360 trailer beacon, you should be good.
The thing that you have to watch out for is that candlepower reg that certain states will throw out there. I bought a cheap LED light bar off eBay. Worked great at night. In the daytime, you couldn't hardly see it. The ones that you can see in the daytime will cost you some coin.281ric Thanks this. -
Strobes can definitely cause radio interference. I used to install 800 mghz radios in airport trucks many years ago. One trick we used with strobes, was to take the lens off and use a piece of metal screen door wire around the inside. Cut it wide enough to go from the top of the lens to the base, and of course long enough to go all the way around. This does work, but not 100% of the time. It is worth the effort tho. Strobe lights not only are more visible but generally will last longer than the revolving lamp style.
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Easiest way is to build a bracket that comes off the top of your headache rack, if you don't have one then mounting them to the tops of the cab extensions with brackets is the way to go.
Personally I like strobes, not rotators, rotators have too many issues. -
I wouldn't be opposed to running 2. They have those brackets like I'll include in a picture where a guy could mount on each side of your cab or sleeper, I think they look pretty sharp. Also maybe consider a mini or full sized lightbar on top of your sleeper. Not sure if your sleeper is a flat top or stand up, that would probably dictate how and where you mount it.
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Mirror mounted ones work well on a 379. One on each side seems common.
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This was on 2 pipes that went down behind the headache rack in 2 other pipes that had a hole drilled at the top off each one with a simple pin through it to keep it raised. It was setup on a simple switch on the bottom of the headache rack. Up was the Beacon light and down was the load lights and the power to that switch came from the load light switch that is wired from the factory on the 379, at least that one.281ric Thanks this. -
Milskire, some set up you got.. Looking good
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I longer work there but I did keep that truck clean and polish it up pretty often. It was a great truck and the setup for the Beacon would be super easy to build and setup.
281ric Thanks this.
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