I want to buy an amp after I get in my own(company) truck. I've got a Cobra 148 GTL Soundtracker that currently keys about 25 watts. I plan on having a variable power knob put on it and running an amp with it.
I want at least 350 watts but not more than 600 watts.
I want the radio to be able to easily drive it with less than 15 watts.
It HAS to be able to be run on a company truck, so no huge amperage draw.
What would be a good amp choice?
On another note, I don't ever use the soundtracker option, is there a way to run a line to the button for ST that would turn the amp on/off? Just an idea that popped into my head that I thought would be convenient.
Thanks in advance for any help!!
EDIT: After more research I am a bit more confused... What does biased mean? And I keep seeing class B and class C, what is the difference?
Thinking about buying an amp... Help?
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by Kickstand-117, Jul 13, 2014.
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all you need then is this and is biased in case you have the notion to start up with ssb, biasing is a small electrical charge applied to the base junction of the output transistor for the purpose of turning on the output transistor prior to being modulated with a ssb signal, the details for this is complicated and there are many choices of brands out there but these are reliable amps
forget the st button as will most likely not carry the load required to act as a remote switch for the amp, just order the remote switch kit for that amp -
Anything over 50-100W peak is going to need a direct hookup to the battery. You're not going to be running a 350-600W amp with a tap out of the fuse block. Yep. your "huge amperage draw".
As far as Class A/AB/B/C/D amplifiers, the difference is in their mode of operation. Class A amps have the lowest distortion, and are the least efficient. Class D amps are used in RF applications where signal fidelity isn't important. -
I planned on running to the battery, I just have to make sure it won't pull too much from the alternator or interfere with computer systems.
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The quality of most of the cb/10m amps for sale out here is questionable at best. Depending on what you buy, you will have to run either a 10 or 8 gage power wire from the battery to the cab. A better option for most is to get a decent export radio with a built in amp.
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I have been told by a few respectable cb shops that anything over 200 watts is causing problems with new trucks ecm not sure I'd want to take that chance with a company truck (note that is hearsay not fact take from it what you want)
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I'll definitely keep that in mind. I'll try to find a good cb shop while on the road(I am almost out of school), and see what they recommend. I sure don't want to screw up anything on a company truck.
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I've thought about it for awhile. I want to try the amp route, but I do have my eye on the General Lee and the Galaxy 98VHP. I've heard a lot about cold solder joints on the Galaxy radios though, but they are some beautiful radios and sound good. The General Lee is almost the same thing as my 148 GTL as far as size and looks. If you have any info on those, or other exports I'll gladly listen!!
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They make plenty of export radios that are doing well over 100 watts I like the stryker 497 hpc or if you don't want an export a cobra 29 with the rxf75 can swing 80 watts if installed correctly
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FYI, current motor vehicle industry guidelines are to protect vehicle electronics against a local transmitter of 110W. It doesn't matter if the transmitter is in your vehicle or sitting next to you.
The reason for 110W is because a lot of commercial/police radios are 110W.
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