yellow check engine light

111 code is usually means that EEPROM ore Flash are dmamged ore with wrong data. Sometimes ROM, processore ore internal 5V power supply. I used to fix faulty units installing new memory chips. I have chip programmer and soldering tools.

After soldering in I calibrate units for engine with Incal ore Calterm. It is not easy deal.

Usually if you have 111 code - replace unit!

Well, you have 434 code. Low bat. voltage. You get it at start only.

Correct hypotesas! You know what to check now!

Does starter crancks engine well? Sometimes bad starter may cause the same

 

I've never seen 111 code with Select, it is Select plus issue. Your truck is old, and seems to me you have Select, so DTC 111 is not your pain.

 

No EPS code is different. Check bat voltage on ECM with AVOM when you crank engine

 

Low voltage code? Clean and check all the cables and connections. Do the simple easy stuff first. And if you have bad cables replace them with GOOD ones

 

Same code here. 434 in 07 intl 9400 with Cummings 450 isx. We've spent so much money at the dealers trying to get fixed. Nobody can fix it. Works fine unloaded. Loaded it will drive fine for a while then will lose all power and regain it back in a matter of seconds. They say they've checked everything with the wiring the ecm the solenoids have been replaced grounds checked. Don't know what else to do. So far were up to 10000 in labor and diagnostic fees and the truck is still sitting down. Last dealer says they fixed it with a actuator that was 400 but it took 44 shop hours to come up with that conclusion. It worked fine for a day then went right back to do in it again. We had the xy shifter replaced and wasn't having any problems with the engine before. Them we leave the shop and drive about 300 miles and this starts happening. Could it be anything dealing with the xy installation? We are just lost and going broke all at the same time. Any thoughts?

 

This sounds like the same type of ecm power supply or ground issue.
Its worth the time to thoroughly check every cable from the alternator to the battery box & the ecm power supply, including the fuse holder. Any tell tale green should be thoroughly inspected and replaced if necessary.
Most n14s are work horses, even with questionable power wires, but they will have odd issues that seem difficult to develop when the power wires have problems.
I had an n14 that started missing erratically, that was due to a main positive battery cable being corroded in two. The cable came in behind my battery box and was difficult to find. The shop I was at replaced it and all of the short jumpers and installed all new fuse holders for the ecm. For only $900 I learned to take a minute, take a look, and fix the obvious.

 

Yeah it seems like a ecm power supply issue but the shops can't figure it out. They say they've checked all wires and harnesses, grounds , the ecm itself and come up with nothing but charged shop hours. We can't figure pout what the loaded and unloaded aspect of the problem is. Why does t do it loaded but doesn't when unloaded