Snow Chain Fit

This is pretty much all I know so I'll be watching this thread as well. Not sure if that's a good video or not, I've never chained before.

 

First winter in the north east?

 

If you can't connect the links -- the chains are too small.

If the cross links begin to overlap, or your chains tighten all the way down to your wheels, your chains are too big.


Other than that, you're good to go. Excess links can be secured with a bungee cord.

 

I'm not sure, but I suspect ideally you would want it to be on the shoulder and not into the sidewall.

Chains tend to chew up tires and I'd prefer they bite into the tread instead of the casing. With tight chains and centering tarp straps/bungees, the chain isn't going to slide off.

 

The video link above (Crete) is really not a good example of chain installation technique. There are other youtube vids that provide better technique and tips. Search youtube and you'll find many more. Watch them all then draw your own conclusions and take the best points from each.

If your chains have cam adjusters on them (probably 4 each) you probably won;t have issues with them and getting them to fit your rubber. If they do not have cams, they are very tire specific. If they seem even a bit "sloppy", they are too loose and need to be tightened by any available means. (hook up another link to make the circumference smaller ,or "cam-up" any remaining cams)

Best and only sure means to know if you have correct chains that are in proper working order is to install them BEFORE you need them on snow/grade and check for wear, broken or thinly worn areas, and fit, and cam condition. Bent cams or hook fasteners need to be gotten rid of.

 

I like this series better then the Crete video

 

And also back to the OP original question about number of links. This will vary as the tire depth reduces (reducing the circumference) So what may work on new tire will be too loose on a tire with 50% or more wear. So the point remains, link up the inside as tight as you can without pulling the inside chain circle beyond about midways of the sidewall. The chains should drape (on top) across the tire and down both sides evenly, and this what you want to maintain as you hook up the inside link. Then once this is done, and once all the "slack" is worked out, you want to hook up as tight (close) as possible, the outside chain, then work from there with the cams. You really can't get them too tight in my opinion.

Remember almost invariably, you will get slack once the tire has turned 10 or more times and all the chain has worked itself out and balanced itself around the tire. And this will most likely need to be addressed or risk damaging something with a chain coming out well away from the tire tread.

The centrifugal force of a low-pro tire turning at an RPM rate to move the truck about 30 MPH is pretty significant, and will overcome any bungi you may be relying on to keep it tamed.

Bungi's are mainly added insurance in case a cam comes undone and you can slow a bit until you can get the chain retightened.

Just remember when looking at chain up training videos, they do the video on dry pavement on a sunny day. Imagine when there is 6 inches of snow and slush everywhere and it's dark. This changes things significantly and the way the Crete video does it, won't work very well.