cooling system problem

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by tonher, Dec 3, 2015.

  1. heavyhaulerss

    heavyhaulerss Road Train Member

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  3. tonher

    tonher Bobtail Member

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    turns out the bunk heater valve on this particular truck (2000 fld120) is electric and not air operated. It has some kind of selenoid electric valve near the heater core, no air lines running too it. So with the radiator cap already replaced, and no air heater valve on this truck, yes I think its looking like a bad head gasket that is causing the overflow tube to lead drips of antifreeze.
    Anyone has a ball park figure of how much it will cost to replace head gasket for parts and labor?
    just trying to prepare, business has been bad and money is tight. (many owner ops know what I'm talking about)
    thanks all for you help, appreciated
    tony
     
  4. heavyhaulerss

    heavyhaulerss Road Train Member

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    had exact same prob, many years ago. $1500 total cost.
     
  5. Cory wood

    Cory wood Medium Load Member

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    We do head gaskets on detroits all the time and we can generally get one in and out in two days for about 1250. That's given all that it needs is the head gasket set as far as parts go.
     
  6. tonher

    tonher Bobtail Member

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    For the air compressor test, do I need to disconnect the coolant outlet line off the air compressor or
    the air lines off the air compressor?
    thanks again for your help.
    tony
     
  7. Cory wood

    Cory wood Medium Load Member

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    The air output line is all you disconnect
     
    tonher Thanks this.
  8. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Yep, just the air outlet line.
     
  9. DaveLV

    DaveLV Light Load Member

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    You need to disconnect the coolant lines from the compressor. You are isolating it so as to rule out air pressure in the cooling system. If coolant is still travelling thru the compressor it isn't isolated
     
  10. tonher

    tonher Bobtail Member

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    Man now I'm more confused.... Some of you guys are saying.... " to test the air compressor just remove the air outlet line" ... Now someone is saying " I need to disconnect the coolant lines"....
    Does someone have the patience to tell me the correct way to perform the test to confirm it's the air compressor or it is not the air compressor that is causing the bubbles to my overflow hose?
    thanks
    tony
     
  11. DaveLV

    DaveLV Light Load Member

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    I thought I explained that in my previous post. What you are trying to accomplish is to see if the source is a blown head gasket in the compressor or of they are coming from elsewhere. To do this you need to remove the compressor completely from the system by removing the coolant lines. It you have coolant running thru the compressor, and it has a blown head gasket it will put air into the system. Also if you have a coolant system pressure gauge you can see what kind of pressure you are building. Also to help you out does the bubbling start immediately. Or does it begin after a few minutes. To check for a blown head gasket you can get an exhaust gas in coolant tester. Napa has it I know. You fill the tube with the blue liquid and then use the pump. If you have gas in the coolant it will turn green and eventually yellow. You have to do it with the truck running and the coolant should be around 170 or better. Also high idle., though if its bad enough that doesn't matter. If you have a vented neck on the surge tank where the cap spins on you need to plug those vents. Use duct tape or something similar. You need to have a tight seal between the tester and the tank.
     
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