How to drive in winter

How? Like your job and life depend on it.

 

I have a switch "TC" (traction control)???. I'll check my manual, too tied to get it out right now.

 

You will most likely never need to bother with that switch. It is to disengage the traction control. Ninety-nine times out of one hundred when the TC light (either on the switch or an indicator light on the dash) is on it means the traction control is off. What it does is turn off the traction control so you can get the wheels to spin. This is necessary in mud and very deep snow, otherwise the traction control prevents the wheels from spinning and the truck won't move. However, do check your manual to be sure.

 

You want an answer how to drive in Snow. Dont be like these Idiots. in the Video... I didnt last 44 yrs and 4 million safe miles driving like these morons. Drive it at your own pace you feel the most comfortable with..

 

I agree with the majority of your post. As you noted, your comment about running without the IAD Lock engaged on flat ground might invite controversy. I disengage when it is not necessary and reengage when needed. For example, last winter I spent most of a day running in blizzard or post blizzard conditions from Bismarck, ND to Salina, KS. Most of that is two lane roads, and much of it hadn't seen a snow plow. If the road was blown dry, and flat I disengaged. HOWEVER, if I was driving it at night I would leave it engaged. Far better to already have it on when you need it when you may not see issues ahead early enough and waste time finding the switch.

Regarding cruise control, I absolutely agree. Turn it off.

Regarding jakes...

... I use them in snow and ice as necessary, but ONLY with the IAD Lock engaged AND a hand on the trolley brake. I should note that my trolley brake is in the correct, ergonomic position, right under the steering wheel on the column. I can engage the trolley brake with a light 2-3 lbs of force or more as needed. Most modern trucks have the idiocy of requiring you to reach out to the dash board for the trolley brake and it will immediately engage well above 10 psi, way too much force to be safe in slick conditions.

I rode with a heavy tow truck driver in Wyoming, while he was towing my tractor and trailer. I noticed he had his jakes on full all the time and asked him about it. He said he ALWAYS runs with the Jakes on, you just have to practice and know your equipment.

I've run over the Rockies on I-70 many times in bad conditions, chaining whenever the chains required signs were up and sometimes wishing I had chained when they weren't. Coming down Vail or from Eisenhower in slick conditions, especially without chains was a delicate thing. I would have the Jakes on, but with my fingers on the switch to disengage the moment I felt it start to get squirrelly. Then it was a matter of applying light service brakes (in trucks without a proper trolley brake) until I could reengage the Jake on low setting, maybe downshift to find a gear that would allow a maximum of medium Jake with no or minimal light snub braking.

 

I just finished watching that and a few other related tapes. It's a shame to see those big trucks coming out of the storm at cruise and no chance to stop.

 

You are very much like myself. However... the cab has to have a trolley. A proper one under the wheel not the generic 50 pound fleet installed on the dashboard. Sometimes applying 4 psi or so with a safecracker's touch is all that's needed to stretch the unit and stabilize you all the way to bottom.

I don't think i will have done as well as I have on trucks without a trolley.

 

I'm sure more than a few accidents have happened because of badly designed trolley brakes. The SOLUTION of course is that pencil heads are now speccing fleet trucks with NO trolley brake.

Problem solved? Sure...

... after all they can't blame deaths on improper use of a trolley brake.

 

Let's take theses one at a time.....

1. Compact snow and ice, straight interstate, what speed are you comfortable at?

Snow and ice that is compacted is actually pretty slick....more likened to ice. You actually answered your own question though with your own question....drive at speed that you are comfortable with.....now that shouldn't mean highway speeds of course , so common sense , and safety plays a big role here....slow down to a manageable rate of speed , and what ever you do increase your following distance by a considerable amount more than usual.

2. Once a week I go to mountainous areas so winding curving highways with no pulloff potential, how fast?

again commonsense comes into play here....there is no number to quantify what is the safest speed....but , the slower is always the better....


The best advice / tip I can give you is until you get a number of years experience driving in bad conditions , always listen to yourself first , not another impatient hand behind you on the radio , or a dispatcher sitting in a nice warm office.....it's YOUR rear on the line , along with the other folks you'll meet on the same roads....if you aren't comfortable running in certain conditions , then don't , but remember also , sooner or later you'll have to , so to begin with slow and easy , is the best way. As you gain experience , you'll gain confidence....just never get arrogant about it.....safety is always the most important thing , not speed....

 

Sometimes I'll apply torque until I feel my traction begin to slip then immediately release to test the slickness of the surface. Might be controversial, but it works for me.