Tractor First, Right?
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by HandLogger, Feb 15, 2017.
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If you pull heavy is the only tranny to have.LoudOne, Lepton1, TripleSix and 1 other person Thank this.
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18918b is pretty common. 20918b is prefered in mid heavy haul (80000 to about 150000) 22918b is the top of the line. But has more splines on input shaft so you have to use clutch to match splines.
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@HandLogger , you mentioned hauling up to 108,000 lbs. Maybe a 349 size hoe?
If you intend to haul that kind of weight in and out of logging sites I would recommend that you spec your truck for that and eat the inneficeintcy of hauling an occasional load over the road to Florida, or hire out that part. That will put you in the neighborhood of 160K gross, and that will demand the correct specs in order to live trying to start that kind of weight in soft footing. As others have indicated, 46K rears, 4:10 gears, and probably 18918 transmission would be as light as I would feel comfortable with in your scenario.
Spyder has a valid point in regard to hiring the hauling done. However, as a contractor myself I understand that the value of having your own outfit to be able to move your equipment on your schedule. It is hard to pencil out until you begin to calculate the cost of having your job shut down waiting for a transport.
Good luck to you!rank, johndeere4020, TripleSix and 2 others Thank this. -
349 size is right on the money, @Oxbow
Yeah, I'm certainly getting the idea that the best "all around" tractor for us is going to be heavier than an OTR tractor, where fuel mileage is a major concern, so hauling from back home will probably be dealt with via hire.
Thank you very much for the great suggested spec's, but I'd also like to trouble you for your thoughts on heavy frames...and you are very perceptive when it comes to hiring out for our regional work. The logistics of getting the "right guy" in really throws our schedule off.
We had a delivery of about 11 tons brought to us just before the first real snow flew at the end of 2016. The tractor that delivered the load appeared to be pretty stout, but, as soon as those tires moved off of asphalt and onto our gravel, it was all bad news. I ended up pulling the whole load -- tractor, trailer and load -- up the main access road with a loader. It ended up being about a 4-and-a-half hour ordeal, which included the driver deciding to box himself in...but it certainly reminded me of why we always had to wait for the "right guy" in the past. It also prompted me to listen to the advice I've been getting for years and, specifically, to start looking for a decent tractor.Lepton1, rank and johndeere4020 Thank this. -
Well, other HH guys can probably answer the frame size better than I, and it probably has a lot to do with the laws in your state and your trailer. If you are going to have a long neck and be able to put 20k on the steering you may need double or heavy frame, but if you will run a tag axle and only get 12-14 on the steering it may not be necessary.
My old truck has 3/8 frame with 2 speed rears (4:11/5:60), 240 wheel base, and over a million miles with no frame problems yet. As others have suggested if you find a tractor with the correct running gear, the frame that it has will probably be correct as well.rank, johndeere4020, MJ1657 and 1 other person Thank this. -
Thanks for your thoughts on frame thickness, @Oxbow
Bearing in mind that I'm essentially a rookie when it comes to semi tractors, would you kindly elaborate on what you mean by "2 speed rears"? I find that to be very interesting indeed. -
It's like the transfer case on a 4x4 pickup. LOW gear tops out at 45 mph, but you can change the rotation of earth. The 2 speed rears is like a transfer case built into the drives. Theres also an auxiliary transmission that fits on the back with 3 speeds. That allows you to have your heavy pulling 15 percent and a quarter million lbs, your regular ratio, if you chose something in the 4.30 range, and a highway gear when you're not heavy and bouncing.Lepton1, rank, johndeere4020 and 3 others Thank this.
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The rear ends have two gear ratios, which can be shifted while rolling. The shift mechanism is air operated via a switch on the dash. They are very nice to use for starting out in soft conditions or hauling on Forest Service mountain roads, etc. Once you get on a hard flat surface and are rolling easy, you can shift into the 4.11 ratio by hitting the dash switch and letting off the throttle. Shifts as smooth as the splitter on an 18 or 13, just make DANG sure the power divider is not locked in when you shift.
They are probably very expensive to replace, but I have had no problems with mine. -
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