I just bought a 2003 Freightshaker with a 12.7 with 920,000 on it. Was listed on Craigslist with 670,000 original miles. Boy did the seller put one over on me. I consider it my fault since I didn't have no way to check the ECM mileage and should have taken it somewhere and had it done before I bought it.I wanted a pre emissions truck and I got it cheap enough to rebuild it. The cab & chassis are in excellent condition. I have got estimates from Detroit shops anywhere from $10,000 to $20,000 to rebuild it. I'm getting prices now on OEM Detroit parts & a reman Detroit head. Anyone know of a good source for OEM Detroit parts other than a Detroit dealer since their mark up is outrageous.
60 series Detroit rebuild question.
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by HARMONFREIGHT, Sep 26, 2012.
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McBee in Columbus, Oh look them up they also reman injectors for detroit.
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WOW...whole lot of rich truck drivers on this thread. I BUY Detroits with 800K on them and do oil samples and regular maintenance and don't even start looking at them until they are over 1.2 Million. Then I drop the pan and check out the bearings and usually spend a whole $12.00 for a new pan gasket.....LOL.
I have 2 right now closing in on 2 million....
When I have had to rebuild I do just that or I find one in a salvage yard and replace the motor with one that had far less miles on it.
I have 6 pre-egr motors running and one freshly rebuilt on a stand in the shop....dashaker, snowblind, truckman29801 and 1 other person Thank this. -
G3 what brand of parts do you use in your rebuilds?
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Typically OEM as often as possible. I buy the kits from Covington in Nashville and I have a pretty good supply myself.
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WELL PUT! My husband just put a new 60 series in his truck from the factory. Anything taken off while installing the new engine was put on with NO LABOR charge, only the cost of the part, since they had to take it off and install it back on anyway. We got ALL new, a brand new truck for the most part, including the transmission, fan hub, fan clutch, starter and alternator, hoses, clamps... The savings in the labor was huge. Had we waited until we got down the road and had a problem. His truck had a million and two on it and was using a gallon of oil every 4,000 miles, plus the EGR Valve was stuck. The new engine came with a new Turbo, EGR Valve and EGR Cooler. Four weeks from the factory for the engine and 4 days to put it in. Back in the road and running strong. Life is good! (Was that a snowflake that was responding to you?)
The happy wife. -
When was the last inframe done? Service records would be a starter! If it was done 300,000 ago the you'll be ok for a while longer!
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This thread is from five years ago I wonder if the op even still owns the truck?
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You can get a good picture of what is going on in the engine if one does regular used oil sampling at each oil change and tracks how things might be changing inside. Otherwise it is a guessing game and one might be tearing into a engine that still is in good shape, or they might get surprised by a motor that is about ready to grenade. Things typically don't break internally without some warning. Bearings don't just fall apart without some warning that they are nearing a failure. Regular used oil sampling can give you clues to a problem starting by changes between samples.
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