truck fridge

this one the same ?
http://m.autoanything.com/travel-ac...4-4013148-bc&gclid=COPW1MGS7tMCFYRXfgodeOoNmw

 

What they are selling on that page are slide rollers for the fridge - an accesory only. It allows you to bolt the fridge down and slide it back and forth.

This is the fridge. https://www.amazon.com/ARB-10800472-Fridge-Freezer-Quart/dp/B002Q1INDM

 

Little bit cheaper I think yours little bit bigger


https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=272230135641&lpid=82&&&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D183016357862_324272%2526itemid%253D272230135641%2526targetid%253D478161035192%2526rpc%253D0.08%2526rpc_upld_id%253D120447%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F272230135641%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9032475%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D764892186%2526adgroupid%253D39783961149%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-478161035192%26itemid%3D272230135641%26targetid%3D478161035192%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9032475%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D764892186%26adgroupid%3D39783961149%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-478161035192%26abcId%3D978836%26merchantid%3D8095794%26gclid%3DCIeqzr-c7tMCFQiEfgodWEAAtg%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1214557714545&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

 

Smad mini fridge on EBay. About 250 , not a perfect fit but it does the job and can be powered both ways .

 

I see it


https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=112229266127&lpid=82&&&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F711-117182-37290-0%252F2%253Fmtid%253D1588%2526kwid%253D1%2526crlp%253D183016357862_324272%2526itemid%253D112229266127%2526targetid%253D286063322320%2526rpc%253D0.19%2526rpc_upld_id%253D122158%2526device%253Dm%2526mpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com%25252Fulk%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F112229266127%25253Flpid%25253D82%252526chn%25253Dps%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9032475%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D764892186%2526adgroupid%253D39783961149%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-286063322320%26itemid%3D112229266127%26targetid%3D286063322320%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9032475%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D764892186%26adgroupid%3D39783961149%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-286063322320%26abcId%3D978836%26merchantid%3D113799172%26gclid%3DCPXG9dmh7tMCFViUfgodGZILyQ%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1214485848809&ul_noapp=true&chn=ps

And this one
http://m.ebay.com/itm/322253866898?...27&_trksid=p2385738.c100694.m4598&_mwBanner=1

 

Size from bottom to the top I thinks okay but left to right looks big no fits

 

Well look at the smad that cost $207 I put that one in my Cascadia. That one is skinny .

 

Neither of those units are "Refrigerators". Both are heat exchanger chip COOLERS. Neither can move inside temp more than about 20 degrees off of external (room) temperature. This is what I was talking about with running a duct from your truck dash A/C unit to TRY to make it colder inside.

If you want a REFRIGERATOR it's going to have to have a compressor to get things cold. And the price is going g to be well north of any ~$250 "electric cooler"

You get what you pay for. You want "COLD" storage get a real refrigerator. You want "cooler than the cab of your truck but not really cold" get an electric cooler.

 

Does the job keeps beverages and lunch meats cold . Its not gonna freeze anything but it's either this or spend 750 bucks for a replacement .

 

Yeah, I was just gonna let that go but your 100% correct.

An "INVERTER" takes "A lot of" 12vdc (vdc = "Volts Direct Current" - like in a vehicle) and turns it into "Some" 115vac. (vac = "Volts Alternating Current" - like in your house)

A "Converter" does exactly the opposite. It takes 115vac and converts it into 12vdc. This allows you to use something like a mobile CB radio in your house by "making" 12vdc from your wall outlet.

I said an inverter takes "A lot of 12vdc" because inverters are technically very inefficient devices at doing what they do. Meaning you need a lot of battery (and or alternator) power available to make what is not really all that much 115vac power to run your... Whatever. To make it worse, most 115vac devices need a fairly large amount of power to work.

Take for example a small window A/C unit. Easily plugs into a normal outlet at home and cools a bedroom pretty well. If you wanted to install that thing in your truck... It is going to take AT LEAST a 2,000 watt inverter to RUN it. If you want to be able to start it (in order to then be able to actually run it) your going to need 3-4 times that to start it. Meaning 6,000-8,000 watts available to get the A/C unit to start. Most inverters will provide (for a few seconds ONLY) about 10-20% more than their normal rating so you could PROBABLY get by with a 4,000 watt inverter. Assuming your truck has 4 batteries, and they are all in great condition, in 2 or 3 hours your truck won't start. The cable from your batteries to the inverter will have to be at least as big as the cable to your truck starter, likely larger.

Of course deep cycling your batteries all the time is going to kill them in a few weeks. And since your inverter is barely large enough your A/C compressor motor isn't going to like it much and will shortly take a vacation. And if you didn't spend the $ on the proper size battery cables to the inverter, it too will object (right from the get go). The battery connections will get hot, the wires will get hot and could potentially turn your entire truck into 1 huge temporary BBQ grill.

A small dorm or office refrigerator isn't quite as bad because of several factors, such as; the compressor in the fridge is much smaller taking less to start and run it so your inverter does not have to as large. The A/C will run A LOT more than the fridge burning up your batteries WAY faster.

Of course the numbers I have above are very rough estimates but in reality should probably be "close enough for government work". There are a LOT of variables (including but NOT limited to, and in no particular order) the exact requirements of your equipment, actual efficiency of said equipment, distance from batteries to inverter, condition and size of battery bank, condition and size of alternator, (if your planning to or will NEED TO run the truck to supplement the battery bank - which depends on a whole bunch of other issues) what type of batteries (starting or deep cycle) battery construction (flooded, AGM) condition and size of battery cables. Condition and quality of the battery cable terminations, (connections) and many more factors all play into the equation.

But I digress... Sorry... LOL.