Whats it worth?

If no paperwork on the engine, then $4900-ish is what i think.

 

Oh wow, i didn't see the headache rack. Add about $150-200.

 

Hows the overall condition of the frame and cab? Not all rusted out then you got a good base to build on. Nice pulling power with 3.70 and 13. 500hp is just a reprogram. No paperwork = no rebuild. And if its true something really wasn't right for a 60 to be rebuilt that early. Even 800k and well taken care of you could get another 400-700k out of her. They run forever if serviced properly. My uncle is not so nice to his and hes at 1.3 m on the clock

 

I guy around here is asking $30,000 for his. But it's been for sale since March now, so apparently that's too much.
Another I saw went for $10,000. It was a 2001 and had a 575 hp 14 litre Series 60 Detroit.

 

Any time you have rust you are not sound. Blast it to remove rust and see the true steel. You might have holes through there after you blast it.

That engine and steers brake etc work needed, I would pay 5000 dollars if that. I expect to sink 30,000 into it. It's more costly than it's worth. I'll look for another tractor. A headache rack does not make a flatbed truck. It is a mid roof sleeper design which is a good design (Ive used a number of these over the years as long they have full air ride bags. Not the pinched half bags that beat you to death)

The 12.7 is rather small to be uprading to 500 hp. It's me. I want a little more beef in a engine that I want 500 plus horse out of. The last detroit I got 500 out of was a 2001 centry brand new something like a 14.6 something liter I think it was. I'll have to go back and look it up. We put almost 8000 hours on that engine with just two alternators replaced that year.

I suspect you are going to have a problem getting 500 out of that engine, the stack back there is a tiny company stack, a single stack. That poor thing is not going to be able to breathe out through that tiny stack to generate horses. You want two stacks and something like 5 inches or larger pipe if you intend to breathe out that power. You cannot get power if you cannot exhaust the necessary burnt fuel out. All you are doing is backing up the little poor engine.

 

Ddec3 500hp right from the factory. 1650 tq. The little m11 cummins you could spec 500 from the factory. 12L e7 mack could get 487 from the factory with xp settings and still run a million. Strong bottom end is key for smaller cubes to hold up. The e7 has buttress bolts through the side of the block to help keep the crank from walking. Went from pushing 28 psi on the factory 350hp and 17.5 hi comp pistons to 35-37 psi with a blixxton tuner that plays with the rack and timing. Just that brings it up to 460-500. Doesn't over heat pyro stays below 1000. Gets 6.5 mpg with small rubber and 3.91s running in hill country with almost 900k on the clock.

That 500 12.7 is pretty much king of the small block diesels.

 

You get a Detroit in a glider its a ddec3 500. And they can be made to f'n scream as a few members on here know. 12.7 and the 14.0 share same bore just longer stroke and in the Detroit world the 12.7 has a better rep than the 14

Exhaust not really a difference between that and duals without being able to suck more air in. The turbo and every piece of tubing in front of the turbo need to be bigger for you to justify getting duals