Well my multimeter must lie to me. Voltage kept dropping until it was almost dead. Strangest thing though; when I let it idle without any electrical load it starts charging back up. Must be a weak alternator?
Voltmeter reading low, alternator and batts good
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Gumper, Mar 22, 2018.
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What is your volt gauge doing in the dash, is the needle dancing around and or spiking when you are going down the road? Alternators do fail.Last edited: Mar 24, 2018
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No it’s just dropping. Eventually it dropped below 10, and shortly after the power was so low my radio shut off. Had to stop and get charged via jumper cables so I could make it home.
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As someone said a lot of good info here. I'v read through a couple times . There are really only 3 possibilities. Can be 1 of them or also a combination of any 2 or all 3. Batteries, alternator, and circuits. The first 2 are the easiest to verify. Load test all the batteries. A bad battery or 2 may cause issues you describe. Make sure that the alternator is putting out a strong 13.8 - 14 volts. A weak alternator can produce a few amps but not enough to handle the loads. If you don't verify these 2 you are chasing your tail with circuits, connections, wiring, and electrical loads. If the first 2 are confirmed good then you know you'v got a different problem someplace and go from there.
AModelCat Thanks this. -
If a guy has the proper tools, you can actually put an amp load equal to the alternator's rated output on the batteries. Put an inductive clamp around the alternator's output wire and see what its actually producing.
Shorted diode or open diode in the rectifier causes you to lose IIRC 66% and 33% amp output respectively.
#1 cause of failed alternators are guys who like to spark the jumper cables together when trying to boost a vehicle. That's a huge no-no.Goodysnap, BoxCarKidd, Oxbow and 3 others Thank this. -
Batteries are brand new Interstates. Going to crawl around the chassis and chase wires before changing the alternator. I was able to get home after having the batteries charged for 20 minutes from a car. They’re just not getting any charge from the truck.
Jazz1 Thanks this. -
Unfortunately a visual inspection can only tell you so much when dealing with electrical. I just hate to see guys just throwing parts at a problem. That can start costing big bucks real quick.
I had a buddy with an old Z24 Cavalier. He bought a new alternator to put in it because it wasn't charging. Opened the hood and found the alternator mount bolts were loose. Tested alternator output before and after tightening the bolts. He gained 30-35 amps of alternator output.
Another friend with a charging problem on his car. He replaced the alternator and made no difference. We screwed around with it for a bit and we eventually found a poor crimp on a ring terminal at the starter solenoid. The repair took less than 5 minutes and cost him a nickle but his wallet was $200 lighter because of the alternator he didn't need (and couldn't return).
Not saying your alternator is ok or failed but just suggesting you do your best to verify that its faulty before you spend your hard earned coin on it because there are multiple issues that can mimick a failed/failing alternator.Jazz1 Thanks this. -
I chased all the wires I could. The inside of the alternator looks like it’s full of dust and dirt. It spins fine with no play in the bearings. Not sure where else to go with it.
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Take the alt off and go to a good electrical shop and have it tested.
04 LowMax Thanks this. -
Yup back when i was with USX my voltage gauge would spike at 16volts on the high & 8volts on the low. After 3 sets of batteries and 2 alternators, it was found to be a chaffed up wire going to the starter. The tech at the dealer got 3 different readings off my truck in the parking lot that day. The batteries, alt, & dash were the 3 spots he checked. What a fiascoJustrucking2 Thanks this.
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