Trans Cooler Failure - Flushing Techniques?

I just had my transmission rebuilt thanks to a leaking cooler that went unnoticed long enough to really muck things up, as there were no external leaks. My mechanic ditched the stock cooler and put an air cooler under the sleeper for it so that the problem never happens again. It's only been a few weeks, but so far, so good. He's done it to several of his other client's trucks, too.

 

I ran mine without a cooler for 6 months with no ill effects. I eventually put a rad style one under the bunk like the other poster did. My cooler started leaking antifreezer outside so l left it there with the fluid going through it for the 6 months. The only thing l might say about how you did it is some trans have an oil pump to move fluid through the cooler. Just capping it off might cause an issue. Any good tranny shop should tell you in 30 seconds whether its anything to worry about. lol btw l can gross up to 63 metric so heat shouldnt be an issue for you.

 

Flushing with regular dex/merc atf is the recommended procedure per Eaton. I usually run it on stands or with the driveshaft out in the shop bay with no load while flushing, but run it through all the gears. Drain while warm and refill with 50 wt.

 

Thank California, Cascade ain't what it used to be. The took most of the phosphorus out of it. Try fleetgaurd restore or penray oil purge. I usually hook garden hose up to heater core to help get the goop out. Takes lots of flushing!

 

I removed the wet kit on my 2012 Pete last month and dodged this very bullet, I found a tiny bit of coolant in the transmission oil when I drained it so the cooler was just beginning to fail.

I installed an air cooler in front of the radiator and ditched the water intercooler all together.

I flush the components separately by disconnecting the heater hoses to isolate the heater core and flushing the engine separate from the radiator by disconnecting the radiator hoses.

First with a high pressure hose the opposite direction of water flow, then by adding automatic dishwashing liquid into each section and going at it again with the hose after its sits awhile.

I repeat the soap step until the water coming out looks pretty good and free of foam, then I reconnect everything and add the detergent to the radiator again and top it off. Then I start it and let it get warm, pull the bottom plug while it is running and fill while it is draining until the foam is gone.

Then I shut it off and add the final coolant mix, I doubt it all comes out but what is left has never caused a problem, I go through a couple bottles of detergent doing a truck system, I don't use it sparingly.

 

go to the shop and buy the cheapest dishwasher powder you can. make sure its for a dishwasher and not for hand washing.

half fill your cooling system with normal tap water, and while filling the last half add in about 1kg of the power as you go.

you need your thermostats to open unless you want to remove them. to get full flow. for the first 2-3 flushes as soon as they open get to draining the system. as each flush removes more oily sludge you can leave it in there longer. once you've done how ever many flushes is needed so its draining as pretty much dirty water then you can start leaving a powder/water mix in all day. draining it daily after it works all day until it comes out clean. then throw your coolant back in.