No crank, no start 2006 international 4300

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by wherestheswitch, Jun 30, 2018.

  1. wherestheswitch

    wherestheswitch Bobtail Member

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    IMG_20180702_171249230.jpg IMG_20180702_171230348_HDR.jpg IMG_20180702_171119559.jpg IMG_20180702_171151007.jpg
    Alright so the hot wire that's not connected... When the starter was wired wrong what actually happened was that wire wasnt attached and it was right next to the terminal and the starter housing. You can see the fuse that's blowing in the picture. Also I couldn't get a pic but there's the ignition wire attached at the relay on top of the solenoid
     
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  3. Hulld

    Hulld Road Train Member

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    0382C37A-ABC0-42B8-8E10-0F5B394E8835.jpeg 07F3A278-74B5-4C25-8746-23A8BAF6362B.jpeg F124681C-0177-4BF0-A643-F0F0777D19A5.jpeg 6236CEC9-9ED0-4828-BCA2-52A8D8B31E93.jpeg
    Here are some quick pictures of my 2007 4300.
    Not sure if they are helpful or not but if you need specific areas let me know and I will see what I can do.
     
  4. wherestheswitch

    wherestheswitch Bobtail Member

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    Thanks man. It can only help
     
    Hulld Thanks this.
  5. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Sounds like you cannot see the forest for the trees. They are cleared one tree at a time. You have to test these one wire and or circuit at a time. Other wise you are lost in the woods. Have you followed any of the advise you have been given and what are the results?
     
  6. wherestheswitch

    wherestheswitch Bobtail Member

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    Yes I've been greatful for the help. I individually load tested the batteries and they were great. Also jumped the solenoid and we got no sound or action from the starter. The elephant in the room I tried my best to avoid was checking every single wire... So today I will take the sheilding off of the wiring harness for everything I can manage in hopes of catching the culprit. I would test every circuit individually... But my volt meter isn't the greatest as well as not being confident I'm using it to test correctly... As I've said I'm no expert lol. If seeing all the wires doesn't show me a burned spot could you guys give me some hints on the best method for chasing the problem individually with the test meter?
     
  7. Ridgeline

    Ridgeline Road Train Member

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    You don't have a short in the harness, you have an issue with the starter itself and the wiring itself.

    The 100 amp mega fuse is there for the body and everything else but the starter. YOU should have another line going to the starter from the batteries, nothing in between. The starter line needs to be on the battery side of the fuse, not the other side.

    The starter needs to be replaces, it has a crack in the rear housing and can leak water in very easily. I haven't seen one crack like that in a long time and that one was beaten by some clown with a hammer out of frustration.
     
  8. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Double check the cables at the mega fuse. The inner stud, (one closest to the fire wall) should only have cables on it that feed the cab. Outer stud will have power feed from the starter though fuseable links, feed the body controller(also with fuseable links) and feeds for the power distribution box that is right there.
     
  9. Hulld

    Hulld Road Train Member

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    I believe the original wire that was disconnected from the starter is where the problem lies.
    Some one disconnected it probably because it has an intermittent dead short somewhere in the circuit.
    They hooked up that wire when they replaced the starter and maybe the short wasn’t there at that moment but now it has returned.
    You could start by disconnecting the wire that they put back on and see what you get then.
    That disconnected wire was probably for some high amp draw accessories on the truck that is probably not used now.
    Not sure what this truck is used for but does it have anything like a power lift gate or anything like that on it?
     
  10. wherestheswitch

    wherestheswitch Bobtail Member

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    Well another mechanic came out today and traced it down for me. Apparently it was an electronic deal that has to do with the blower motor... I believe he said it was like a IDM or something to that affect. I'll edit it later when I can remember what it was exactly... He disconnected it (is about the size of four relays arranged in a box) now the truck starts great just needs that part for the blower to work right... The part is about $1000... May have to come back to it in the winter. Thanks for everything
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2018
  11. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    LPM? Linear power module?
     
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