I realize that this trad might not yield any results, but it's worth a try. Long story short I just bought an 07 Sterling with a Boydstun screw 4 car headrack and 6 car trailer. The truck is all original screw but the trailer has been converted to posts with normal cylinders. Everything seems to work fine now, but I understand that these thing have their issues. I am looking for TROUBLESHOOTING and ON ROAD REPAIR advice from guys who own or owned one of these and know how to get the cars off when the thing is acting up. What extra parts to carry ? I found a lot of parts online like solenoids, override solenoids, jumpers, different relays, jumper wire .... I don't mind spending a few $100 to have a replacement part when needed. What are the basic steps for troubleshooting if you hit the switch and nothing ? Most common issue? Basic steps to keep it working well? The truck has a PTO so no electric pump to worry about. I like to know as much about my equipment as possible and take pride in being able to work on it. Thanks.
Boydstun screw truck repair troubleshooting
Discussion in 'Car Hauler and Auto Carrier Trucking Forum' started by frankdtank, Oct 14, 2018.
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Don’t own one but I ran one briefly and have many friends who ran them for many years. Keep a fairly good size sledgehammer for when you top or bottom the screw out as you will have to tap while someone holds the switch. Also a portable propane torch comes in handy in cold weather. Good luck as everyone I know who ran one had them in the shop often. I imagine someone who can troubleshoot with a test light probably can fix many of the issues.
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The Sterling has problems as well. I hope you run local and have a good mechanic that you trust.
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Get the bolt and nut size for each end of the cross shafts that connect the screw posts under the truck, they have been known to shear off. One side screw motor should have a square drive in case you need to lower the rack manually or adjust when the sides become uneven from a sheared bolt. Try not to bottom/top out the screws as they could run past the nylon block and then you'll need the sledge.
frankdtank Thanks this. -
If you ever get the chance and the $ id say just finish the conversion get rid of the solenoids and put a cottrell/ curtis-wright valve bank on it
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That is something I've considered right from the start. The most expensive part would be the bank itself the rest is just connecting to the existing pluming. Will see how it goes but if I come across a good used bank I'll snatch it up.
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Yea it is quite expensive. I think you might have to extend a few hoses. So they can run directly to the cylinders from the valve bank
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I know this is a old post but is that all I needs to be change, just the curtis Wright bank the reason I'm asking I'm in the process of a convertion and I'm trying to find as much information as I can
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How did you do with the conversion?
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