Stemco Grit Guard. Just remember the blue on a stemco is paint, and needs sealed. All so sealant needs to be put on wear ring to spindle. Green on CR seals is sealant.
Quick wheel seal question...
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by HopeOverMope, Nov 23, 2018.
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snowman_w900, spsauerland, Rideandrepair and 1 other person Thank this.
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I always put a small film of silicone on the spindle anyway. On standard trailers I have always replaced the axle if it had a bad spindle. It does not cost much more than the repair.snowman_w900, jamespmack and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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Stopped up vents makes sense good to know that. The Scotseal Alf seems best to me it hasjamespmack Thanks this.
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Skf !jamespmack and BoxCarKidd Thank this.
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They are great seals I just don't thank they are the best for spindles in poor condition.jamespmack and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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I’m glad to hear that. As last front brake job I had the bearings and seals replaced. The guy used silicone. I questioned that. Must be right though no problems. Fine line between questioning a Mechanic and being an aggravation resulting in higher labor charges. Loljamespmack and HopeOverMope Thank this.
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I would get the seal done again. They can be finicky. I like national seals myself. Older guys liked stemco seals because you could pull the hub a few times without destroying the seal. That was in the days of inboard drums and dayton wheels. Saved you from having to true up the wheels too. 95%percent of shops frown on that nowadays because of comebacks.
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Thanks. Plan on asking one of our shops about the stemco/ wear ring combo. And the new style jam/locking nut and see what they know about it
Then include the silicone on the spindle part. Nice info y’all.Last edited: Nov 25, 2018
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That was just referring to seals with wear rings. On nice spindles and hubs with your SKF-CR I dry install as per instructions. If one of the sealing areas has a spot damaged from a Gomer I have put a spot of silicone there with good results. It probably does not normally hurt to have silicone on a CR , drive in type, but I had one turn in the hub years ago. The hub was pitted badly so I skimmed the hub with silicone. It was leaking loads later, loaded with a bridge beam and permitted for in the morning. They picked it up a bit with a Drott and I slid the duels off on an oiled sheet of plywood. Drove a CR in dry like the first one I took out for a brake job. It never leaked.
Nuts are no magic trick it is proper adjustment that matters.Rideandrepair and jamespmack Thank this. -
No matter nut type, checking with dial indicator is the only way to verify. .001 to .005.
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