Quick wheel seal question...

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by HopeOverMope, Nov 23, 2018.

  1. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    Stemco Grit Guard. Just remember the blue on a stemco is paint, and needs sealed. All so sealant needs to be put on wear ring to spindle. Green on CR seals is sealant.
     
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  3. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    I always put a small film of silicone on the spindle anyway. On standard trailers I have always replaced the axle if it had a bad spindle. It does not cost much more than the repair.
     
  4. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Stopped up vents makes sense good to know that. The Scotseal Alf seems best to me it has
     
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  5. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Skf !
     
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  6. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    They are great seals I just don't thank they are the best for spindles in poor condition.
     
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  7. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    I’m glad to hear that. As last front brake job I had the bearings and seals replaced. The guy used silicone. I questioned that. Must be right though no problems. Fine line between questioning a Mechanic and being an aggravation resulting in higher labor charges. Lol
     
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  8. special-k

    special-k Road Train Member

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    I would get the seal done again. They can be finicky. I like national seals myself. Older guys liked stemco seals because you could pull the hub a few times without destroying the seal. That was in the days of inboard drums and dayton wheels. Saved you from having to true up the wheels too. 95%percent of shops frown on that nowadays because of comebacks.
     
  9. HopeOverMope

    HopeOverMope Road Train Member

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    Thanks. Plan on asking one of our shops about the stemco/ wear ring combo. And the new style jam/locking nut and see what they know about it

    Then include the silicone on the spindle part. Nice info y’all.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2018
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  10. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    That was just referring to seals with wear rings. On nice spindles and hubs with your SKF-CR I dry install as per instructions. If one of the sealing areas has a spot damaged from a Gomer I have put a spot of silicone there with good results. It probably does not normally hurt to have silicone on a CR , drive in type, but I had one turn in the hub years ago. The hub was pitted badly so I skimmed the hub with silicone. It was leaking loads later, loaded with a bridge beam and permitted for in the morning. They picked it up a bit with a Drott and I slid the duels off on an oiled sheet of plywood. Drove a CR in dry like the first one I took out for a brake job. It never leaked.
    Nuts are no magic trick it is proper adjustment that matters.
     
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  11. jamespmack

    jamespmack Road Train Member

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    No matter nut type, checking with dial indicator is the only way to verify. .001 to .005.
     
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