EATON FULLER REBUILD, Rebuild, Replace, or Overhaul?

That Speedco place can change the trans oil and you can look at both plugs for a pile of chips an powered gears, some powered stuff is normal, if all is ok mark down mi. of when you changed it wait 250,000 and do it time after time till it starts showing wear on ends of plugs.

 

Unless the gear teeth are worn, damaged, pitted or hard surfacing is spalling off they are re-useable for the most part. I freshened up my 15 speed with new bearings, seals, input shaft, air lines/valves and new shift forks. There really isn't much to an Eaton Roadranger. Pretty simple and dead reliable when driven right.

 

Best thing is to check the tag on the transmission. If it is the original transmission you should be able to clean the tag up and read the numbers on it. Also check with the dealer to see what the exact model number of that transmission is, for example rto14613. Some people when they replace the transmission go to a heavier torque rating like in rto16913. I don't know if those are actual Transmission numbers but you get the point.

If it was replaced the tag also could be intact, but the original transmission I would be pretty certain your tag would be in good shape. On there should be numbers that tell you what the build date of the transmission is I believe.

If there are numbers on there that you don't understand or that you can't figure out if you call Eaton or whoever the manufacturer is they can help you to decipher it.

 

Most cases if its shifting fine, not popping out of gear, no abnormal noises, clean oil etc you're usually good.

 

Did you see the oil yourself that came out of there? Did you see the shavings yourself?

The reason I ask you is that there is a recommended interval. It sounds like they obviously went over. But for someone else who changed your oil, if he'saw oil that was darker than normal to him that could be coffee can oil when really it was just darker than the oil he knows he puts in. I'm not knocking the guy, but if he is a newer Tech or whatever, it's a second hand thing. The oil may be dark but it may not have been as bad as he said. It may or may not have been.

As far as shavings go, that kind of depends. If he pulled out large chunks and pieces of gears and bearings, the transmission is wiped out. But you would feel that when you drive it. But if they went too long on the oil change interval, and you found some fine metal shavings, that could be from some mild wear shifting gears or something like that accumulated over too long of an oil change.

I'm not saying any of that is good, but it may not be as bad as you think.

If it shifts fine and does what it's supposed to do as a model said and doesn't jump out of gear and whatnot, be prepared to replace it but just use it.

Most likely when you have a problem it probably will not just explode on you. It will probably begin with some kind of vibration or a wine or some kind of noise or something abnormal that you'll notice and most likely you'll have at least some time to fix it.

But when it happens fix it right away because at that point you really are on borrowed time.

 

I LIKE your thinking.

Staying ahead of the curve is important. Not staying ahead of the curve has bitten me in the ### more than once.

I won't say how many.

 

It doesn’t matter how far ahead you’re thinking. If you do this long enough you’ll still end up on the side of road somewhere. That’s when you find out how good your plan b,c,d etc is.

 

Amen!!!!

Just when you think all is fine, the #### up fairy finds you.

 

You can check the bottom plug after 6 mos or so if you’re worried about it. May find some more shavings,It’s the big chunks I’d worry about. Their may have been some pieces from an abuse, like a chip off a tooth. But it’s working, so I’d run it. 1st Trans rebuilt@ 500 k.I bought Truck @875k w/ rebuilt engine Trans failed @1.1 mil. The top right side of gears ( right bank?) the bearings went bad. Easily seen after pulling inspection plate.I was told it’s the weak link on 13 sp. I ran about 500 miles in lower gear that made less noise to deliver. New reman @ Truck Pro $4200 Labor $800. So far, 10 yrs 1.2 mil miles later, still good.Previous Owner must have Driven it wrong.Although there was a bad batch of transmissions in 2000.So the repair caught Me by surprise.Reminds Me I need to clean the cooler fins on mine. It’s mounted high unlike my 99 that hung low, making it vulnerable to objects hitting it. Be ready to spend $7k by the time they do clutch and rear main seal. I’d advise you to insist they do rear seal even if it’s dry.