Well, I finally gone and done it!!

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by north1, May 5, 2009.

  1. north1

    north1 Bobtail Member

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    After looking at every truck dealership and jockey lot in the state and saving for four years I finally found a semi for my farm operation. Trucker I used for years retired and the need for a truck became more immediate.

    Truck is a 2001 freightliner fld 120 with a red top n14 @460, jake, cruise, 190" WB, 3.73 rears, air slide fifth, all aluminum, dual 100 gal tanks, air ride suspension and cab and 420,000 miles. It's a former Ryder truck which seems to have been well maintained. Local freighliner dealer put it through their shop and put $3,500 into it(changed all fluids, new air bags, new belts, replaced steering pitman arm, intake hose, etc).

    Now here lies one possible problem that has kept me awake some nights. It has a meritor 10 speed od transmission - model mo-15G10A-M15. Some guys I've talked to laugh and state that beside running a freightshaker, I will curse the transmission and better be ready to be putting in clutches. I Love The Truck!! Got the doors adjusted so I have to open the window to get the door to shut. Cab is tighter, quieter and cleaner than any straight truck I've ever been in.

    Used the truck 2 weeks now hauling spring wheat (80,000lbs) out of yards and sod that was soft and truck idles the load in first. Seems to work well running in 9th loaded on short runs at 58mph and 1800 rpm. Empty in 10th at 70mph and 1500rpm. Is this the proper strategy? Will the future warrant more sleepless nights(getting in and out of soft fields).

    Another question. The shift pattern is a H pattern like a 10 speed direct. I thought overdrives had 4-5 and 9-10 switched around? At least the book shows this transmission is supposed to.

    Thanks for any and all info. The wife thinks I'm crazy to be concerned so much, but I've waited, scrimped and saved along time for this and hope I made the right choice.
     
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  3. Ridgerunner665

    Ridgerunner665 Road Train Member

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  4. stranger

    stranger Road Train Member

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    If the transmission has been driven halfway right it should last for years. Signs of weak clutches (sycros in Eaton) are sloopy gear changes with a tendency to scrape a gear with very little pressure on the shifter, and the shifter being extremely easy to slide in and out of gear. Popping out of gear will be a big indicator of any problems.

    Don't worry about it until it breaks. Just don't jam it in gear, pop the clutch, ect. Drive and shift easy, and it should last for many years.

    I have only driven a few N-14s, but the ones I drove had a great amount of low end torque, meaning lots of power around 1200 RPM. You don't need to go above 1800 unless needed to have enough RPMs to shift with. Run it around 1400-1500 and you should be good to go. Above that is wasting fuel and wearing out the engine.

    If I am wrong with any of this, someone will come along and straighten it out.
     
  5. PAJ1979

    PAJ1979 Light Load Member

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    Mar 28, 2009
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    yeah the N14 is just happy as a clam at 1400-1500rpm's, no need to wind it any tighter than that unless you just want to hear it scream (and pay for it in fuel mileage) With 3.73 rears and a OD tranny, you should be about the right RPM range at 60-65mph.

    I can't help ya much with the tranny... the only 10 speeds I've dealt with were eatons, and they'll last a couple million miles if taken care of.
     
  6. Les2

    Les2 Road Train Member

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    The newer 10 spds all have the same shift pattern. They did away with the goofy shift pattern for some reason, I'm assuming cause of drivers and the fact that for a while alot of companies used the 10 OD.
     
  7. black_dog106

    black_dog106 Road Train Member

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    Hi North1: Congrats and good luck with your truck! It sounds like it is fairly well set up for what you do. I have no experience with Meritor transmissions, so cant give you any idea on that......... david
     
  8. 7mouths2feed

    7mouths2feed "Family Man"

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    I did not see where you mentioned the tire size so I will give you a range
    of RPM's.
    Your meritor trans has a final ration of .73 FYI
    with rear end gears of 3.73 at 65mph hear is a break down or RPM Ranges.

    LP 22.5 = 1450 rpm
    22.5 tall= 1480 rpm
    24 LP = 1480 rpm
    24 tall = 1330 rpm.

    22.5 tall and 24 LP's are almost the same diameter

    These are only estimate since every tire manufacturer is going to have a slightly different overall diameter but it will give you an idea. Hope this helps.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2009
    bullhaulerswife Thanks this.
  9. bullhaulerswife

    bullhaulerswife Forum Leader/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    Hey, did the dealer adjust the doors for you? We have the same model and the #### doors are so leaky, we need to have them adjusted. The rubbers are fine, so its got to be that the hinges got tweaked.
     
  10. FYDA FREIGHTLINER CINCY

    FYDA FREIGHTLINER CINCY Light Load Member

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    good choice, lol,, they are some of the tightest cabs around. the top cover in the trans has a reverser that moves the shift fork in the opposite direction for 4th,5th,9th,10th, the very front gear in the trans is direct drive and the 2nd one back is over drive. thats why they have to reverse it in the top cover. its hard to explain, but when u move the stick back the fork goes forward, and moving stick forward makes fork move back. so thats why they use a reverser to keep the shift pattern correct.. those are good trans just don't slam the gears, the gears are held on the main shaft by snap rings. u can push them out of the snap ring. as far as the clutch goes, just as long as it ain't a solo u will be fine..

    bullhaulerswife, do u know where the doors are leaking,, like the top rear corner, lower corner?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: May 5, 2009
  11. Les2

    Les2 Road Train Member

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    Open the door, grab the bottom of it and lift. If it moves any, your hinge is shot or just about shot. If the plastic piece at the top is cracked that will also make the door loose. Another thing to check is the pin and latch.

    A few other things to look for.... take the cover off the door and the tin plate thats behind it, if its loose ( there are screws all around the frame for it) that will also cause a loose door.

    Make sure the door isn't sprung out also. The biggest mistake guys do is use the door to pull themselves up and into the truck. That will wear a door out in no time!
     
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