12.7 detroit over heating...

I did not know a turbo could cause high coolant temp.

 

I read this entire string...I'd like to know if this was ever resolved or fixed?

I have a glider with a 12.7, it's doing the exact same thing but with only 150k. It was supposed to be a brand new motor out of the crate installed nearly 5 years ago at just under 1.4 million on truck itself. New radiator, rebuilt trans, new clutch (not that those have much to do with it). I have receipts for the repairs, prior owner spent just under $30k. A farmer in OK bought it, ran it for the season and put it for sale in winter. He never said anything about temp, but, he also didn't say anything about other hidden issues either, a bit of a shyster, but, the truck was only $10k, a 1 way flight and 800 mi drive. I assume he and the original owner had the same temp issue since there was not a lot of mi (120k when I bought it) on new motor in 5 yrs.

We replaced fan clutch, flushed and filled rad, checked cac, new thermostats (although, came to find out later they used 190's). Replaced the temp sensor, even tried putting it in other locations.

I do have infrared heat gun...rad is 180, oil is 190, turbo is 475, exhaust manifold is 275, the exposed brass on sensor reads 195, by the time I pull over, pull hood, guage on dash is 215. The housing of waterpump is 215, the exposed external part of the head is 215.

I wonder if the sensor isn't getting a false reading due to heat transfer when hood is closed?

It's only happening on hot days, in high gear, above 60 mph when either you are accelerating to pass or climbing a grade, even the slightest one, while loaded.

The only thing we haven't done is replace the water pump. But, my mechanic doesn't think it's a problem since the radiator, hoses and external reading on sensor are normal.

He says possibly the issue is that the radiator is too small. Again though, wouldn't a temp sensor show that?

I'd really like a secondary temp guage stuck directly in the rad.

The truck is a Intl 9200.

 

Anyone get a final solution on either of these im havin sam problem

 

I had a similar problem with a 9400 international. I went through the ritual of water pump, thermostats, radiator, and even temp sensors. It was the freakin new batteries I had put in it.
Everything I did it would run hotter when I cranked it, before I was done it would idle at 205 with the fan on.

The batteries were not giving the computer the right voltage and the computer was telling it it was hot, it showed on the gauge and would turn the fan on. This was a 97 model, and this was in 99 when it had 200,000 miles on it. I still own the truck, and the problem never reoccured.

 

Hi
Did you have a volt meter in the truck? How did you find out the new batteries were bad?

 

I have a 2000 9400 with a series 60, tuned to 580. I have to keep backing out of it on a hill due to temps getting close to 220. What radiator did you use? I currently have a new radiator and water pump less than 7000 miles on both. CAC was taken in to be pressure tested and cleaned. AC condenser and oil cooler are new. Shouldn't be air flow restrictions. What got you down to 180 degrees? I just changed the stats out for new 180s today, but haven't pulled yet. Hopefully the tstats were my problem. I pull 85000 to 90000. 13spd, 3.90 gears , 11r22.5 tires. The 2sw cats ( turned to 550)in my group walk away from me. I m not in a race with them, but would like to keep up , so our pilot cars can block intersections for all the trucks at one time

 

If you have a 580 toon and 550 cats are walking away you have the wrong toon this could also be some of your high temp issue

 

I will talk to the guy doing my tune. I was gonna pickup a spare ecm. Maybe we'll look at doing something different in that ecm. Just changed out the thermostats for some 180s running cooler with an empty trailer than before, but in a cooler climate right now also. We'll see when I load after the holiday