This is what we thought of doing also drilling them out that way if they break then easy change out ha! But obviously it’s not proper way either.
Breaking engine mounting bolts
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Perchie15, Jan 23, 2024.
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Rideandrepair and Diesel Dave Thank this.
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Drivers side gets all the torque when taking off. Always first to break. Big Bad 600hp Signature series. Nice. Maybe you can chain it till you can replace all of them. We used to do that on the old V8 clunker cars. Big block B body 62-73 Plymouths and Dodge left side motor mounts weren’t available in the 80’s. Had to improvise or use solid steel mm mounts.
Perchie15 Thanks this. -
So options are drill them to 3/4 and bolt and nut them, update to the newer 4 bolt mounts, or keep breaking mounts. -
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Grade 8 3/4 bolt. Not sure on the length, you will have to measure. Going to have to remove the mounts off the engine and off the frame rail for drilling. Tapered 3/4 reamer helps.
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You’ll never get them drilled out in chassis. When he says a tapered reamer helps. They drill very hard. The ones we did got drilled out in the drill press then put in.
or you order all new stuff from the chart provided. The parts guys will tell you the upgraded parts are not on your chassis. This is an upgrade/ modification.
If you willing to do the drilling. It will be cheaper to drill out the ones you allready have.
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