Breaking in An Engine

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by joey8686, Nov 1, 2020.

  1. joey8686

    joey8686 Light Load Member

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    I guess that’s my only option, to get as much of a load on it without the trailer as I can, and then load up the trailer heavy as I can when I get it.
     
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  3. LameMule

    LameMule Road Train Member

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    I'm not by any means an expert on the subject but I have built a few of my own engines and gone through the break in process.
    The basic advice of varying rpms, not idling any more than absolutely necessary and putting a good load on the engine are the only real guidelines I've ever followed.
    I've always tried to ensure I used proper break in oil for new cams or bearings and checked for leaks at startup then promptly go out and run it as soon as getting to temp.
    You can load it pretty decent while empty by skipping a gear and rolling into the power. I've always tried not to spin it too high of rpms but rather run it up to speed at full power then decelerate and repeat until I get to a good hill.
    I've always replaced the oil filter after the first couple hundred miles even if it's a diesel, motorcycle or hot rod gas engine, just a personal preference. Filters are cheaper than metal shavings, gasket materials and whatever other contaminants that could possibly have ended up in the engine.
     
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  4. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Do not remember where I read about it. The basic idea is the cylinders need to be under high load pushing the rings toward the cylinders in order to seat the rings. As best I recall from a company making drag engines, first run 1/4 throttle. 2nd and 50%, 3rd at 75% and then free to go.
    I had the previledge to tour the John Deere plant in Germany. Those trackers come right out of the plant onto a chassis dyno. Cylinders are loaded, HP and torque are checked. Then sent to the left for shipment. If something is not up to snuff they go to the right.
    I prefer to drive them under load after a rebuild. If that cannot be done I do this. Drive them a bit. Then run them up to max road speed allowable, hold the throttle on the floor and slowly apply the brakes ( with the left foot ) pulling the engine down to a low rpm. At a point the engine can recover when the brakes are released and the throttle is feathered.
    Yes that is not great for the brakes but still less than when a light is misjudged with a load in my opinion.
    Then like JD and drag cars, good to go.
    Please excuse me while I go dig my fallout shelter now.
     
  5. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    I'm gonna put my Brakesaver on full to break mine in when the time comes.
     
  6. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Sounds like a simple bypass a throttle switch? Brakesavers are in all my manuals but I have never seen one in person.
    Now GET UR DONE AModelCat. We know you are stretched out but cheering you on.
     
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