Detroit 1-box filter cleaning notification (dash light, error code?)

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by shatteredsquare, Jul 22, 2018.

  1. 386lover

    386lover Light Load Member

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    It sucks this derate stuff. An engine should perform regardless. I hate this crap they put on engines. It's all a big scheme to make more money. Truth is engines were lasting to long so some techs and managers(who've never drove a semi) got together and said we can't just let these people come in every few months only needed an oil change. We need to make more. Some was law on emissions most was profit motive. Now you'll come in or we'll derate you're engine. And for our bs service we'll charge you bookoo bucks. It's just a big scam. In the end it's the cars causing more pollution not trucks. But that's life. The owner operator has 2 options. 1.delete.2. Pay his child's college fund out to keep going. It's one big scam.
     
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  3. mhyn

    mhyn Road Train Member

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    This is not an OEM part. I would stay away from any aftermarket emission parts.
     
  4. shatteredsquare

    shatteredsquare Road Train Member

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    No point of shooting toothpaste through the whole engine when you can just get a Detroit certified clean filter to just swap out. Detroit page even says the bake method doesn't work hardly anyways. I'm not mad about emissions systems, as long as you don't idle it's no problem. I've got an APU that serves as AC, battery tender (which extends the service life of the batteries drastically), tied into the coolant system for winter block heat. Say what you will about crapcadia, I've been averaging 8.5 mpg lately at 79k lbs gross staying at 60mph. I got 9.3 mpg from Houston to New Jersey with 35k in the tanker. That's retarded. At this rate I'll be able to afford replacing all my teeth when they get rattled out of my head.
     
  5. Working2party

    Working2party Medium Load Member

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    When it comes to Driving habits. All I can suggest is using the torque band as much as you can. Use the Jake as much as feasible, we have a Driver (close to retirement) that has always broke in his trucks correctly. I for the life of me wish I knew how so I could pass it along. But every one that drives his trucks (there’s been 4 since I started) has asked me to turn their truck up like I did his. My reply has always been “ I’d love to if I had done it”
     
  6. Working2party

    Working2party Medium Load Member

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    I haven’t figured out the quotes yet, I answered may of you questions in the body of the last reply, you’ll need to expand it to see them... sorry about that.
     
  7. Brandt

    Brandt Road Train Member

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  8. shatteredsquare

    shatteredsquare Road Train Member

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    I was guessing on this engine, but in a motorcycle or car it basically boils down to making the piston rings seat against the cylinder walls as tight as possible, as soon as possible, so that all the wear is done at once, under load, and all evenly. There's only a certain window of time before normal use wears the material down to where it's going to stay, so the idea is to flog the hell out of it right from the factory, under load, to accelerate the wear when everything is brand new, so when they seat, they seat tight and even, and then get that metal shaving soup changed out. Since the rings are the only thing that actually seal the piston, and they are made of the softer stuff, it needs to be done early, and under load, and hard.

    I wasn't sure about putting too much stress on it straight from the factory so I gave it a while (25k miles) just putsing along at 60, very gentle. Then changed the oil at 25k, and proceeded to beat the ever loving hell out of it fully loaded at 80 mph from Houston to LA, or up to Seattle for the next 3 months, getting up to speed and grinding the engine brake down to 60 again. basically driving like a teenager. I didn't like how it sounded at first (no rattle), so one morning before it got up to temp (still at 145 °F) I pissed off sergio and accelerated HARD up an entrance ramp, in 3rd gear, full throttle from 1100 to 1350 RPM against the product falling backwards. did that a couple times that morning on it's way from 145°F to 200°F, and since then it sounds loose and angry at those RPMs, like a diesel engine should. rattlerattlerattle. Above 1350 it goes back to spinning like a humming bird. From 50 to 65 takes FOREVER, but once it gets spun up to 70 (1500rpm) it will go from 70 to 85 so quick I'll start hearing sirens that aren't there.

    If you highlight text you'll get a little pop up, you can tap the "+quote" button on add many pieces as you want and then hit "insert quotes" when you go to write a reply in the text box at the bottom of the page.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2018
  9. shatteredsquare

    shatteredsquare Road Train Member

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    You know maybe that really is worth it, they push that stuff through the EGR valve and turbo and everything, the whole engine system. I'd need to see before and after pictures of the EGR valve, to see how effective it is at carbon removal. can't beat a good colon cleanse!
     
  10. shatteredsquare

    shatteredsquare Road Train Member

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    I wonder what the whole cleaning package costs. They actuate the turbo and valves and everything while it's getting pumped through, sounds pretty legit.
     
  11. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    Just get a sonic cleaner and run the EGR valve through it 1-2 times a year. Same way it's done with TK's with EGR. Only 100-200.00 depending on the size.
     
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