Engine/exhaust brake question

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by magj, Jul 4, 2019.

  1. magj

    magj Bobtail Member

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    At what point in terms of weight, axles, etc, do you think a truck needs an engine or exhaust brake driving mountain roads? I'm driving a Freightliner FL70, two axles with a tank on mountain roads, carrying typically up to 10000 lb. I'm using brake stabbing technique but not really comfortable depending on service brakes alone, especially since the transmission will upshift by itself when it reaches high rpm even if I have put it in lower gear. I don't let it get that high but if I happen to lose the service brakes, nothing else will slow it. Thanks for any input.
     
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  3. FlaSwampRat

    FlaSwampRat Road Train Member

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    Does your shifter have H? Sometimes putting it in hold can help, other times it won't because depending on program in the trans they will override and upshift. I run a similar truck (f750) and when we were racing up North I was on the engine brake all the time in upstate PA and NY. I run about 25k total weight and it was a huge help so if you can get a engine brake installed I would definitely recommend it. I would definitely try manual mode to see if you can force the truck to hold a gear, that will be at least a start
     
  4. x1Heavy

    x1Heavy Road Train Member

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    It does not matter. I use the Jacobs downgrade on any hill at any weight provided the physics on the downgrade can balance same all the way down on cold brakes that are not used unless something really requires them.

    Heck I am old enough to where on some mountains Gravity allows the truck to "Fall" at it's own rate at really fast but stead speed all the way down.
     
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  5. magj

    magj Bobtail Member

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    It's an old Allison 6-speed 2002. No "H" that I've seen. I believe the "mode" option only is for economy. Neither mode I've tried will prevent the upshifting.

    We are looking to put in an exhaust brake for the Cummins ISC. I've seen some online for under $1000. I'm sure there will be more costs for electrical components, vacuum tubes, etc. Does anyone have an idea what the labor might be?
     
  6. Dinarak

    Dinarak Bobtail Member

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    If you have abs you dont need to stab brake. However to keep wear and tare down, and brake fade from happening is have an engine retarder installed. With that keep in mind some towns/cities have an ordnance on use of engine retarders.

    I'm not all knowledgable on diesel engines but depending on age/manufacture date they might not be able to install one.
     
  7. Dinarak

    Dinarak Bobtail Member

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    Call up different shops and ask what their hourly rate is. Then check what the "standard repair time" is for the change. Aside from parts you could get a basic ideal of cost. Other way is to tell them what you want done, and ask for a quote. They should list their srt(labor cost) and a general list of parts.

    Here in Alaska, some shops charge from $175 to $280/hr plus parts.
     
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  8. FlaSwampRat

    FlaSwampRat Road Train Member

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    Holy crap, we average half that hourly rate here in Florida. Y'all make the big money up, I wish I could go there and work but I'm pretty sure my blood would freeze.
     
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  9. x1Heavy

    x1Heavy Road Train Member

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    Wake up call. (Now this driver was a little bit unnecessary in turning... and lugged the big one a little)

     
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  10. Michael 247

    Michael 247 Heavy Load Member

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    Get used Jake Brake from a Truck Junk Yard..Or just get in a lower gear so you don't have to use the brakes at all
     
  11. FlaSwampRat

    FlaSwampRat Road Train Member

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    Finding used parts us a good idea to cut back on cost. He can't stay in a lower gear because he has a old auto that doesn't have a hold feature.
     
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