Front spring replacement

Yep, that’s what I mean, usually seen easily. My friends 05 379 was that way. He never did change the springs though. You could see the sag a few inches either side of the axle. Spring arching in wrong direction.

 

Absolutely. I ordered Monroes all around. Picking them up from NAPA tomorrow morning.

 

The more I think about it. I have no desire to do my own front springs. Sure it’s only a few hours in a Shop. They have the tools and experience. You or I it’s a 12 hr. Knuckle busting, on your back job. Maybe waiting till Monday for an unexpected part, losing a day at work. Best to get it done while your out, scheduled, so not to lose any revenue. Work an extra day, if needed to cover Labor costs. Go home and enjoy. Better time spent on small things, on an old Truck. Plenty to do. Save Labor costs on the easy stuff. I’ve priced some springs online. Seem reasonable. Haven’t checked the Dealer yet. Just a thought.

 

That’s the place!! Don’t know what type rear hangers you have, but as stated might need new rear brackets on frame, if they’re eggholed, along with shackles, and ofcourse bushings. Sure sign of trouble is popping on turns, especially when Loaded heavy. Usually goes away for a while after greasing, if equipped with Zerks. Eventually popping all the time. Unless a U bolts loose, or springs broken, usually rear bushings cause the popping. Fronts barely move. Metal ones rarely wear out. Mine are rubber, greaseless type. I’m sure they’re shot. Spring shims might be rusty, once old Springs off. Shop will be able to do everything needed. In no time.

 

Truck is twenty years old. I would just get the rear hangers right off the bat. Springs, u-bolts and pins as mentioned. Lots of good advice mentioned. Sometimes springs go easy and sometimes they do not. Have had to put a port a power or a come a long between them in the back. I normally jack them up under the front engine mount X member and do one side at a time. Snug up u bolts on the first side and torque all of them when both sides are done.
If you do not have free run of a shop as some people do probably better off to do the extra work day. Pay someone else and enjoy your day off.
Some of it is hard work and your u - bolts probably torque to 480 Ft Lbs. These go to 660 I thank.

 

I would get the spring hangers as well. Never had one down that the bushings weren’t shot. 3 5/8 bolts per side. Just make sure the front and back of mating surfaces are clean. New springs should come with new bushings installed, pins come separate. I jack them up by the axle then put jack stands right behind the spring shackles. Use a block between the stand and frame. A good floor jack under the axle makes it easy.

 

Pius remove the wheel on the side you are working on.

 

I got to thinking about this spring replacement. Is the fact that the rubber bump stop hits the bottom of the frame rail theee definitive test for weak springs? My front axle is maxed out a majority of the time so I know the front end gets a good workout on our less than ideal roadways.

I just changed out the OEM shocks with Monroes. Should be interesting to see if there's a difference. The Monroes are significantly fatter than the Paccar (TRP) brand.

 

I figure wore out springs either constantly bottom out or just break. I had one that broke so I replaced the other side

 

You could put a thin layer of grease on the top of the spring. Check it occasionally, see if it has a mark from the bumper, or if any grease is on the bumper. It may have been a one time thing. Maybe it bottoms out often.