Help identifying Cummins

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Binderdavemays1, Nov 6, 2024.

  1. Binderdavemays1

    Binderdavemays1 Light Load Member

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    OK so I’m under here looking at the crank and on the back of the engine it looks like there is a thrush washer on both sides, see images….and on the front it appears that there’s nothing there. The crank moves back-and-forth maybe a 16th of an inch. Myquestions are does both ends of the crank get a thrush washer or is it just the back of the motor on an MTC 350 small cam 1976?
    Also Does it matter which Rod and Main cap Ipull to start As long as I document everything?
     
    broke down plumber Thanks this.
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  3. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    Rear gets the thrust bearing.

    Little insight for ya…. Loosen all the main bolts first, not loose just simply loosen… gives the crank the ability to drop a couple thousandth, makes it easier to change out the upper bearings….
     
  4. Diesel Dave

    Diesel Dave Last Few of the OUTLAWS

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    broke down plumber and Oxbow Thank this.
  5. Binderdavemays1

    Binderdavemays1 Light Load Member

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    Is there a thrust bearing all the way around top and bottom or just on both bottoms? Because if it’s just on both bottoms with that little metal pin in it, I’ve got them in tact. That means the other two pieces were from the old motor stuck in the tube if they go all the way around the net means those other two pieces are from the top of this motors crank

    Also is 1/16” or less play something to worry about?

    so if I take main caps loose I just replace rod bearings or?
     
  6. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    I'm not a Cummins guy by any means but roughly 0.060" of end play on a crankshaft seems quite excessive to me. If I were to guess I'd say you would want to be around the 0.008" to 0.012" range. Just enough clearance for lubrication between the thrust bearing and crankshaft surface. I would stick a dial indicator on the crankshaft and confirm the actual amount before jumping to conclusions. Play looks a lot worse to the naked eye than when it is actually measured in my experience.

    I'd trust @OLDSKOOLERnWV's advice on this more than mine. Like I said I'm not a Cummins guy, just someone with enough knowledge to be dangerous.
     
  7. SmallPackage

    SmallPackage Road Train Member

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    Washer is two piece and goes all the way around the crank journal. Earlier ones up to 1968 had one piece washers and cranks had to be completely removed to install those. I believe max tolerance on end play is half the amount you say you have.i’ve seen old timers check them with the thickness of a match book cover and call it good. Lol.
     
  8. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    Sorry guys I been in the woods all afternoon helping my son in law retrieve his deer.

    See if this helps…..

    IMG_2481.jpeg IMG_2482.jpeg IMG_2483.jpeg IMG_2479.jpeg
     
  9. Binderdavemays1

    Binderdavemays1 Light Load Member

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    Thanks and nice buck

    So the thrust washers have a top and a bottom, correct?
    Bottom has a round metal dowel and they’re still in place.
    And an improper clutch adjustment would cause the top thrust washer to fall out
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2024
  10. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    Yes the thrust washers are 2 piece. The cut out or notch in the thrust washer that aligns with the pin, that keeps them from spinning with the crank.


    Never heard of any clutch adjustment affecting the top thrust washer to fall out…
     
  11. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    It pulls on the throw out bearing wears the crank which spits the washers out
     
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