Hub nut torque

Does your shop have many repeated hub bearing failures from all the others in the shop using improper procedures?

We have a rule about pan plugs. The plug is either out or tight, no in between. If you don't have wrench in hand to make it tight then don't put the plug in the pan until you do.

 

I wouldn't say improper, they just don't use a dial indicator, they use the "just feel right method" you mentioned earlier. No failures. This isn't their first time. They're just as confident in their method as you are in yours. If you have success then go for it! There is more than one way to skin a cat. To me, I just don't like the idea of the preload method because I can't see or measure what I have. I use a dial indicator and the number is right there, that is just the way I am. The oil pan "rule" is pretty common, same here, either in and tight, or out. Me checking it repeatedly is just for my peace of mind.

 

I set preload on all bearings by feel but for newbies I tell them to torque them to spec. Once they become familiar they can make their own choice.

When you follow the pan plug rule there is no need to recheck it if it's in the pan.

 

Does it have a spacer between the bearing cones? If so, the torque spec is different.

 

I know this is a 10 year old thread but wondering just how do you get accurate reading on your indicator when the wheel itself wants to spin?

 

I usually do it with the wheels off so its just the hub sitting there.

 

Sorry I should have said "hub" not wheel. I used the old brake drum as a base for the indicator but it's tricky to get a reading because the hub itself wants to spin as you're pushing/pulling on it. I got it but I can see why somebody says f*** that and just does it by feel.

 

You are supposed to rotate the hub some while taking the reading to make sure bearings are seated. Take lowest and highest reading to get total indicated runout. TMC RP618 is the industry standard.