I will start the in-frame on my C15 Acert next week. This is my first in-frame. I have three weeks of vacation, so I will be able to take my time. I do believe I have all of the tools/equipment/shop manuals, I will need, including the jib crane that I built to lift the head.
Does anyone know where I can get a protrusion worksheet? I know I can just write the numbers on any sheet of paper, but I would rather keep a better record of the measurements.
Liner Protrusion Worksheet
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by A5¢, Apr 8, 2018.
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First of all, it does no good to measure liner protrusion, before disassembly. All Cats need counterbores cut for shims. Even if the deck is perfect, with a standard spacer plate (.338"), your liner protrusion, will be .004". That is too low. If you use a undersized spacer plate (.335"), your liner height will be .007". (too high). Counterbores should be cut, so that the shim is .002" above the deck.= .006" liner protrusion. (Perfect) Note: You must measure the thickness of the spacer plate, They are supposed to be .338" thick. I find them any where between .3365" and .3395". Also, shims can vary much.I cut counterbores to match the shims, and spacer plate.KB3MMX, bullracl66, magoo68 and 3 others Thank this.
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Here you go...
Attached Files:
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Thank you for the worksheet, Goodysnap. That will come in very handy.
And thank you, truck engine machinist, for your numbers.
I am looking forward to the project and with the help that the members of this website have given me, I am sure all will be fine.
If there is any other trade secrets that would make things go easier, please feel free to send them my way. -
I think that's awesome your willing to tackle a major job like this. Lots of knowledgeable members on here to help you along the way.
Good luck to you.Tug Toy, Oxbow, spsauerland and 2 others Thank this. -
Just remember: Its only nuts and bolts. If this is your first engine rebuild, a camera would definitely help out. Photograph hose and harness routings, clamp locations etc. Mark all your harness plugs and hoses with coloured zip ties (and photograph them with the zip ties on in case they fall off!)
xsetra, ramirezbrandonc, Tug Toy and 4 others Thank this. -
A thorough steam clean before you begin will save a lot of clean up during the process. I always lay everything out on workbenches lined with cardboard to keep oily parts from making a mess. Lay everything in order as it comes off the engine facing the same direction and cover things with old bed sheets to keep them clean. Detail in your work and the organization will only help you get a quality rebuild in the end. Good luck on your project.
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That is exactly what my plan of attack is. Pictures, as is. That a few parts off, and yes, keep all parts and fasteners together and then keep the camera going. I have tables that I made out of 3/4" plywood. Rocker arms, Jakes and Eva's will all be kept separated by cylinder. New exhaust sleeves, new injector hold down bolts and anything that look stressed. My Pa was a wrench for 50+ years. He was a master mechanic. There was nothing I could break that be couldn't fix! I am proud that I learned from him. Plus, there is nothing that gives a driver more knowledge about him iron, than working on it yourself . A great sense of pride and accomplishment comes from a job, well done.
I grew up in a way that you drove the truck, washed the truck, did maintenance and in in the event that it broke, fixed the truck.
I have not drove for a living for some time now, I am old school. Log books were done on the honor system and there was very little electronic gadgetry. A model 29 and a Whistler.
I have three weeks for my my project. I passed on a scuba diving trip in the Virgin Islands to get greasy!
I will post pictures as I go along. And thank you to the many that have helped me already. I had a driver friend that was going to stop by and help, but he untied his boot with a chainsaw -
When in doubt read the manual. Look of very good info in there. It takes a bit to figure out how CAT organised it but you will have to jump between disassembly and assembly to specifications to get the torque specs. Some bolts will not have torque specs, but there is a generic bolt size/torque spec chart.
Go slow and take your time. A bit of paint marker on top of the bolt once it has been torqued stops you from double guessing yourself.
It is a big undertaking but you will fell pretty #### proud once you are done! Good luck!wore out, spsauerland, SAR and 1 other person Thank this. -
I have also watched Adept Ape videos. I picked up a ton of help there. I do not recall who made them, but there were plenty of others that showed the skills required to do an in-frame. Some better than others, but there is still things to learn from them.
SAR Thanks this.
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