question about rearend

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by jeffl0123, Jul 18, 2024.

  1. jeffl0123

    jeffl0123 Light Load Member

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    Jan 18, 2018
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    Hey guys. So here is my dilemma. I have a 2000 FLD120 truck. Vin is F02319. It was originally a twin screw but at some point someone chopped it down and made it a single rear axle. It should have a meritor airliner 20K rear end in it. I purchased it a little over a year ago. It is setup as a mobile home toter truck. The guy I bought it from who I also run with from time to time said he had been putting a differential in it about every year. He owned it for about 7 years. But since I have owned it I have already put 2 in and its about to go again. Diffs have been done buy a local guy and the shop I normally go to replaces it under warranty. But this time the rebuilder is refusing because he is saying that the 20K rear that is in it is to small to handle what I am doing. I don't know that I agree with that as I know guys that have a 20K rear that don't have this problem and haul the same trailers I do. Anyway, the guy at the shop and the rebuilder are both saying I need to upgrade to a 23K rear. Shop guys says they have done it with others and it has solved the rears going. So my question is, do I need to replace the entire rear end or can I just replace the differential and the axles to upgrade it? One place that's a used parts place that has the upgraded diff and axles says I can and the guy at the shop says I need the whole rear end. Obviously if I don't have to replace the whole rear end then it is less work than just replacing the axles and diff. I am asking because I think I am going to tackle this on my own since the shop wants like $3000 to swap it out. Any input would be appreciated. It did have a slight vibration especially going up a hill loaded. By the way, dont know if this was causing issue but last week I found that the rearend was not straight. It was 7/8" off. Meaning the drivers side of rear was towards front end and other side opposite. I straightened the rear out and put new U bolts in and have not had any vibrations since but I believe damage was already done to the rear.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2024
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  3. Lazer

    Lazer Road Train Member

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    Wasn’t this same question asked a month or so ago?
    IMHO, Dont screw around rebuild/repair what you have. It’s obvious what you have, despite being repaired or rebuilt numerous times is not up to snuff. Get a totally different rear end.
     
  4. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    When Blue ( to the left was running the road ) a lot of people added air bag tags. Just weld on a few feet of frame rail and add an axle.
    They did fine behind those 290's and 71 series.
    Now there is big power and high torque compared to them. Then you double the load on one axle and wonder why they fail. Look under the back of a CF, Watkins or Yellow pulling doubles. They have a big chunk under the back of them. Even Old Blue with a 250 has one.
     
  5. 86scotty

    86scotty Road Train Member

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    I had to click on this just because of the title. Then I was sad to see all of these technical words about some truck problem.

    Bummer.
     
    Lazer and hope not dumb twucker Thank this.
  6. skallagrime

    skallagrime Road Train Member

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    Clearly if youre replacing the diff yearly or more theres something wrong with it, its just not the thing to use for that application
     
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