Replacing Air compressor Lines

I replaced the oil line on my Series 60 a month or so ago. Went to my local O reillys & they made me a replacement for around $40.00 or so. Nothing special about it.

 

If you’re going to change the coolant lines, Drain it from the bottom radiator hose. Should be a plug, Drain enough, to get the level below the hose, if not all of it. Re use it, or replace it if it’s 5+ yrs old. Be a good time to flush it at least once with distilled water, or replace thermostats. Might as well replace all the hoses. Job keeps getting bigger, Lol. Would be time to replace hoses though, while coolant drained. Or Just save it, re use it.One thing at a time.Lol. Reminds Me, I need to change my heater hoses. Did all the others along with new thermostats, and Final Charge coolant recently.

 

If you can re fill it, let it run for a while, at least 5 minutes, and drain. Best to have a hose, and flush it as many times as needed. Till water is clear when drained. Even let it run with drains open, hose filling it, is best. Depends on how cruddy it is. Real bad systems, use a flush, cleaner. Sold at dealer, by the gallon. It can be a pain if you don’t have a hose. But can be done. Need to flush out all the cleaner. I like to flush it one last time with distilled water. Most say it’s over kill, but I don’t want any hard water, at all. Re fill with pre charged coolant, like final charge, or add sca/nitrate protection additives like pencool and test with a test strip, to avoid a pin hole in a liner,

 

If you need to clean it, the stuff at the dealer is expensive, it’s good for rust, if it’s bad. A good cleaner is cascade dishwasher soap. Pour a bottle in let it run, and drain and flush a couple more times with clear water. It won’t hurt the system. It has water softeners in it. ie “ no more spots”. It’s usually used after an oil cooler fails, to get oil out. It all depends on how dirty the system is, but should prolong the life of the radiator. I just changed my radiator, it lasted 20 yrs. Cheap insurance.

 

I don’t know what your budget is, or how long you plan on keeping the Truck. If you use a flush, beware of the automotive types, they have acids in them. That’s not good, especially bad for aluminum. Coolant can be expensive. I used to buy pure silicate free green and mix it with distilled, and add the required additives. I did it every year, it was cheap. I recently been using final charge pre mix. It’s expensive, but can be found at Tractor Supply for about $10 a gallon. I’ve been told, don’t know if it’s true or not. That Heavy Duty Truck coolant has extra anti foaming agents, that act against cavatation, ( air bubbles) , since I had a problem once with cavatation causing pitting around the top one cylinder, causing the head gasket to blow, I started using the new coolant. Antifreeze never goes bad, it will never freeze. But the additives get depleted over time. Should be good for 5 yrs anyways. That’s what I figure. Final charge is supposedly good forever when used with a coolant filter charged with self releasing additives. But even those have thin layers, that dissolve when they corrode away, then release additives. IMO, it’s a fool prof insurance against neglect.Good for fleets. As long as you test it with a test strip, and add pencool or equivalent as needed. The filter is not needed. Except it may keep it somewhat cleaner, not sure about all that. It’s one more potential leak, IMO. Not really needed. Once you get coolant refilled correct, all the air pockets out. Should never have to add any. If so, there’s a leak or problem somewhere.

 

One more note, So far the final charge has proven to be pretty good. It comes with all the additives already. I’ve used it for almost 5 yrs. never had to use any supplemental additives. It always tested good. Now I’ve got a fresh engine, new radiator water pump, hoses and thermostats. Hopeful be good for 4-5 yrs. But will still test it every 3 mos at least. Should be done every month or so, as part of a normal PM. Often neglected, causing a premature Overhaul.

 

There is a lot of information on this website about this topic.
I Agree with Rideandrepair about procedure.
Except I just use hose water to flush.
Also you can use Cascade powder dishwasher soap to clean and flush system.
Premix powder in hot water before you put in radiator. I used a 45 ounce box. Half a box. I flushed twice and used the whole box.

Then flushed with hose water. Changed charged coolant filter. Filled with basic green antifreeze and distilled water.
Mechanic said to change filter in 30000 miles. Then every 6 months.
First filter has a higher quantity of additives than the filters to follow.

 

I used the new gel cascade last time. It worked too. Just don’t use regular dish soap, I made that mistake, first time I ever flushed one. Too many suds, Lol. Had to flush it 10 times. Big mistake. Big mess.