Sleeper insulation

Armacell Product Selector - AP ArmaFlex, AP ArmaFlex FS Sheet and Roll Insulation

This is the stuff I used. Its antimicrobial. You need to watch for that, so anything you put in wont grow mold when it sweats, because if you heat or cool a well insulated truck, it will sweat some.
I actually need to leave a vent open on the coldest nights just for that purpose.
This stuff is used on chillers and heating units and is very good stuff. It's not cheap. You can get it in various thicknesses and with adhesive backing or glue it yourself. I posted a few pics when I did mine. Link is here.
It's a lot of work. But worth it.
Operation Insulation.

 

My truck was purchased with the "insulation package" and is supposed to do everything you listed......

I still hear reefer, still need AC and heat all the time.

So Pav when you find that magic insulation, please let me know!!!

 

I dont think anything will allow you to not need HVAC at all, but before I did mine the bunk heater was 3/4 or more when it was real cold the first winter I had the truck, and if I go past 1/4 now I'd smoke myself out. On a lot of nights down to about 0c I dont use it until I wake up and give it a little blast to heat things up before I slide my old ### out of the bunk.

 

On the 93 we had to tear half the sleeper apart to replace the rear sil that goes across the back of the sleeper. We just ended up tearing the whole sleeper apart and put in the foam 3/4 inch panels. We did the floor cab/sleeper too. Put down some 1/2in rubber matting then carpet over that. In the cab we also put a bunch of thick floor mats over that. Super quiet ride now. You can hardly hear the old RTO whine with the aux engaged

A few layers of diff materials makes a huge difference. If i just take the top layer floor mats out of the cab it gets noticeably louder

 

If you want cheap, you can use that good ole asbestos. There’s always someone illegally throwing it out in the trash somewhere.

Lizard Skin makes liquid spray insulation as well. You can even combine the spray and dynamat for some superior insulation.
Do it once, do it right. You get what you pay for.

 

Did you remove the plastic that is bonded to the cab? I'd LIVE to remove that stuff and design a while new sleeper set up, cabinets etc. I'd like a pair of crank out windows like the volvo 780 with screens.

 

That would be the best thing to use. I never thought of it being in rolls. Like you mentioned it needs to be glued down to avoid condensation. I took all the floor insulation and carpet out of mine. Used layers of rubber mat. It stays damp underneath. No mold, it’s aluminum, so no rust. But it’s a concern. I need to re do mine.

 

This is quite common in the auto restoration market. It works great but you have to spray it.

LizardSkin

 

Used the small froth kit from home depot...was like $400. Get u a straight thin piece of steel to scrape it down to the thickness you need. I used a metel ruler about a yard long and a guitar string on wooden toggles