Sorry for the delay and thanks for all the help. I have a 98 freightliner classic.
I removed all the cables from starter to battery. The 2 positives looked good but I cleaned them and wrapped them in new wire protector. One of the negatives looked sketchy (exposed wire). I’m having a hard time getting a replacement made in 4/0 gauge so I added a couple of 2 gauge (not 2/0) negatives along with the 4/0 negative cable I already have. I’m not very savvy with wiring so let me know if this is electrician blasphemy.
I also bought a load tester from harbor freight and the batteries were all good. One was borderline but still in the green.
I did the voltage drop test suggested above and the positive didn’t have any drop but the negative dropped .75 volts. Would the size of the wire cause this? I went from 2 4/0 cables (I think) to 1 4/0 and 2 #2 cables.
I’m removing the ground cable at the starter to check that now.
Starting issue
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Calliph, Aug 21, 2023.
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The smaller the wire #, say 10 gauge vs 14 gauge, the larger the wire. A larger wire that is good should have less resistance than a smaller one and therefore less voltage drop. Can't just look at cables even though good to do a visual on connections. Cables/wiring can become internally corroded or black and not carry what they need to do their job. You can remove both ends (at starter and at battery) of the positive cable and check the resistance (ohms). Do the same for the negative. Clean the ground connection at the frame and also do a voltage drop test on it. Good then to coat with silicone dielectric grease. Voltage drop can be done between any 2 points so if a large drop is found then you can go between one end and a closer connection to isolate the problem. Plenty of videos on you tube for checking a starter circuit. Ford Tech Makuloco has a really good video on this and the principles apply to any starter circuit.Last edited: Aug 23, 2023
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If I read OP correct. It only cranks by hitting the starter with power. Check the starter relay solenoid ( whatever it’s called) Check the wires running in and out of it. Very common for them to break. It’s located on firewall near foot brake valve and wiper motor.
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I wouldn't rely on checking ohms of a wire. Been burnt on that in the past.
BoxCarKidd Thanks this. -
Alright, attached jumper cables to the ground on the starter and attached other ends to the frame and it started. It was very sluggish but it did start. The jumpers were extremely hot afterwards also.
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Put the other one from Battery positive to starter positive see what happens.
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Correction, when I attach the cables to the ground of starter and the negative battery post it starts
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Key and button works? If so forget about the relay mentioned.
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Tried the positive starter post to starter battery post and nothing. Just clicks
Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Yes key and button work. Yea I figured it wasn’t the relay. I had to replace that about a year ago.
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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