Trucks are not like cars. Pretty much every brand can be built to perform whatever job it needs to. I don't know what gravel hauling is like in Texas but if there's off road driving involved I'd be looking into something with 450+ horsepower, 18 speed, 4 way lockers and 3/8" thick frame. Ground clearance is a plus when you're off the pavement too. Real easy to tear off skirts and such on rough ground.
Tractor for end dump?
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by Derricks, Aug 26, 2017.
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Right on. And 2 the OP. 26k will rarely be loaded. Most of us guys in Texas have overweight over axle permits for the counties we run. So 84k or close 2 it all the time on most jobs. Get paid by the ton. So you wanna maximize each load. Sometimes you will get hourly rates but even then contractors will want you loaded close 2 80k
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Every thread on here is accurate advice Derricks. Big power, double frame if possible, as little plastic on the truck as possible, 3.73-4.11 gears, and a trans with a good low gear like a 15 speed, 8LL, etc. and non emission motors like 2002 and before, or especially a 99 so you don't need E logs. You will be permitted for up to 84k gross and your trailer may only be 26 feet long. That's tough on a truck.
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This is great advice! Lastly don't get a small motor thinking it will do what a big motor will do it won't. I don't know the laws in Texas but when I was pulling an end dump we got paid per ton or per hour. If it is an hourly job or per load you get two maybe three buckets and you cruise to the dump. If it's per ton and no scales are in your path I would go in heavy. When you are heavy it won't stop and it is super bouncy also you run the risk of the trailer tipping over.
Lastly since you don't sound like you pulled an end dump either a get a framed end dump or get one were all 8 stay on the ground. They are heavier but you will thank me later when you get loaded wrong or the ground gives way where you are dumping and you see the trailer sway in your mirrors.
Oh get a day cab with a big window so you can see if you are leaning before your trailer is too high. Trust me on this one it's hard to tell with the small mirrors. -
Guys I appreciate the advice. How do I know by the specs of the trucks I'm looking at if it's a dbl frame. I would prefer Volvo , is there a certain model that will work. Haven't found in where I'm looking that are 450hp and up. Also does everybody agree on a 15 speed? I've never drove anything other than 10
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Look at the frame.. if there is an inner and outer rail, it's double framed. Around my way Lott guys are getting away from the double frame n going with a heavy single frame. Living in the salty area of the country, rust jacking between the rails shortens truck lives a lot faster than heavy loads.
I don't pull a bucket, but I wouldn't own a 15. Not for off road, on road or any combination of the 2. Again it depends what you're gonna use it for. Lots of site work? lots of highway? Hills or flat ground? Big motor/small motor? -
I'd avoid a double frame like the plague. Single 3/8" thick rail would be much better IMO. 15 speed transmissions are pretty much obsolete now too since 18 speeds are much more versatile.
Ruthless Thanks this. -
@Ruthless
Why not a 15? Those five deep reduction help me get 100k+ moving easy on soft ground, out of pits etc like it wasn't even there. Those transmissions never had issues, and we ran heavy all the time, from 24 foot palmers hauling rip rap at 86k or better on levees, to cotton seed in 45 foot vans at up to 110k and never broke a sweat. I would buy one Mon thru Sat and twice on Sunday.
According to Eaton, it was designed for heavy haul and off road applications. It's my first choice, followed by the 18, then an 8LL if I was hauling a dump local out of pits.Last edited: Sep 1, 2017
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430hp c13 10 speed 3.58 rears. Not the the best suited but I load 28.5 tons on it for 88k gross 5-8 times a day.
This is the normal trailer down here in florida. I was able to get about 29.5 tons on this one but I don't care for the way it loads or the rent I paid for it
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