Using Generator

Regarding a household window a/c mounted on a truck:
I didn't want to cut any holes in my truck until I decided on a more permanent solution so I just put it in my passenger window and drape some towels around the top and side. It's a little bit of a pain to put in and take out but it's not too bad. I find it a bigger annoyance parked next to a noisy neighbor. Although I don't like parking next to anyone idling their truck (or reefer) any time of year, towels don't block the noise as well as glass. It's the same as having your window down. Plenty of nice days where just having the windows open are also ruined by the noisy neighbors too though.

 

2 gallons of gas = 12hrs of freezing rooftop AC.
Honda Eu3000is, 13500BTU rooftop ac.
Never had DOT say a word about it in the last 2 trucks. Works perfect and have right at $3k in it all.
Got a remote start/stop from Ebay, so can be started from inside.
Weight for the generator and rooftop unit is right @200lbs
Takes up @18" of frame space.
For heat, I use a portable heater, and have a battery charger wired in too.



Martin

 

Here's the pics I promised. This was from a few days ago. Latest snowstorm really did a number of my truck's outward appearance.

I have it mounted in my spare tire rack. In addition to a few brackets to the tire bracket and exhaust bracket, I also have the old spare tire chain holder wrapped around one corner of the generator skeleton to hold it in case somehow the other brackets broke. I use a large flex pipe to direct exhaust up to behind the cab and out toward the side (to avoid getting through any holes or pooling under the truck). I use a heavy-duty cord that's covered in flex-tubing, and as you can see have it wrapped once around the fairing bracket to help keep it in place. The plug end then has a makeshift ziptie chain holding it up in case it vibrates out of the outlet (it's done that twice on this latest generator). Even with the plug coming undone AND a ziptie breaking (must have got a piece of debris) it still stayed up off the road because the cord is rather stiff (12-3 insulated outdoor wire).

The cord runs through a drain hole in the bottom of the sleeper and is plugged. I have a junction box and it splits to two outlets (with room for more). One outlet is dedicated to the A/C, while the other is for any use I want while running the generator (it's mounted on the side of my cupboard (non-standard, I built a shelf system in place of Freightliner's standard cheap plastic cupboard). The flex pipe for the exhuast is mounted by one hose clamp to the shield on the exhaust stack. When the generator is not in use, I pull the flexpipe away from the exhaust and secure it with a rubber bungie cord to the tire rack. It's large enough that it goes over the entire exhaust tip from the muffler.

The air conditioner was cut out and as per the picture, the bottom of the A/C is a few inches from the top of the mattress. It's positioned so I am sitting right in front of it (I'm using it now here in Texas). It didn't take much to cut the hole for it. I was going to make a frame to go around the A/C inside the truck to match my cupboard and stand, but have never gotten around to it (the drywall corner pieces are what I used to help anchor it and prevent it from wanting to tip (as you can see in the pic, it tips a little because the inside of the sleeper heavy cardboard with a thick insulation, and it doesn't allow the A/C to always sit flush). Some expanding foam sealed it and kept it in place once done). The slight tip actually helps with condensation if I were to be parked nose forward downhill.

Only real complaint is if I'm parked slanted to the driver side sometimes it will kick the low oil sensor and shut it off. Also, when it runs low on oil, it will trigger the sensor and I fill it up. I've had this generator all last year. Will probably get a new one in the spring or summer. I've never changed the oil. After a month it starts burning through it at a rate that it is running almost always fresh oil (0.6qt and top it off about every 2 or 3 weeks). Manual says to change oil between every 50 and 100 hours (depending on usage). I used this one over 800 hours before the screen that tells you hours broke. Only thing I've done is clean the air filter (was very dirty thanks to a muddy parking lot).

And, as always, if you're going to run a generator, get a CO detector and place it in your truck. One night the exhaust flex pipe rattled off the muffler tip and it didn't take long for enough CO to build inside the truck to trip the alarm (also, the threshold for the alarm is much lower than what would be harmful). But, I opened the windows, got out, fixed the flex pipe, and within a few minutes it was back to the safe levels).

 

If you carry a gas can, make sure it is a DOT approved one, not one of them plastic cans but one with a safety loop on it. I got hassled by Ohio DOT enforcement a few times for my regular metal jerry can and was told my my lawyer they could have ticketed me and made me leave it at the nearest truck stop.

 

My Columbia has a really nice 3/4" deep groove 1/2" wide all around the door windows. I am going to get either some 1/2" plywood and plastic coat it and cut it to the size of the groove and then cut out an opening to mount a compact window AC in it. Will be able to have a very solid, secure foundation for the AC. Or if I can find a large piece of solid 1/2" stiff plastic or plexiglass and do the same thing, I will.

I already have a Xantrex inverter charger in the battery box. Will be getting Yamaha EF2000is portable and will be able to keep batteries charged up, run the sleeper hotel loads, and run the compact AC unit at the same time. Since I am mostly in the Upper Midwest, I don't have the demands of someone sitting in the Arizona desert in the summertime.

Even with this winter, I could have easily had the oil pan heater unit powered and batteries charged by the Yamaha unit, and I already have a factory installed Webasto unit for heat.

I just can't justify the cost of a full blown APU. Even counting the very few times a year I have to idle, I figured just to break even with an APU unit would take over 10 years compared to the low amount of fuel I use idling. I would like to be able to always shut the truck off, so doing the setup I described just seems like the best option.

For gas cans, these are pricey, but they are VERY durable, they are stackable, they can be hung on frame mounts, etc and definitely meet DOT requirements. i plan on stacking a couple of them in one of my side boxes that is ventilated. These cans can be mounted upright or laid flat and will not leak... even sitting out in the hot sun!!

http://rotopax.com

 

Well, I carry a 5g red gas jug in my chain box. I'm not quite sure what you mean by 'safety loop'. It complies with all regulations I know of for a gasoline jug. The generator holds about 3-3.5 gallons, and the gas jug usually only takes about 4.5 gallons, so it complies with the 8-gallon limit.

 

That's some funny shiet!! And when you go to sell it, tell them it has window a/c!!!

 

It certainly isn't my idea of a "neat install" neither.

Martin

 

Yea, I couldn't do that to my poor old gal.....

 

Considering I have almost 1.3 million on it, I don't think an '06 Freightliner Century has much resale value above the going scrap price. I'm quite content that any modification to my truck is because it's for me.

And I'd rather be comfortable than have a 'pretty truck'. Poking holes in it for an APU, mounting the condenser on the back of the sleeper, etc. isn't much better. And a lot more expensive.