Better Refeer unit Vs. Better trailer?

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by SemiMan, Mar 30, 2015.

  1. SemiMan

    SemiMan Light Load Member

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    May 21, 2013
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    What is more important, a better model refeer unit that cools very well, or a newer better trailer to have a better seal/insulation?
    I currently have a 210 SB TK reefer unit with a rebuld eng on a 2006 Utility
    trailer. We have been having issues with it dropping down to -10 temp and holding it. It takes us 8 hours to drop down to -2 in 90's degree weather. The trailer has no holes and doesn't have any cracks when examined being inside with closed doors. We have also checked the refeer unit at TK and they told us it is working well with no issues, so we are not sure who is at fault here.

    Whats more important a Refeer unit or a good trailer?
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
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  3. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    If the insulation is soaked no unit will cool it easy.
     
  4. SemiMan

    SemiMan Light Load Member

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    May 21, 2013
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    How to check for that?
     
  5. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    Fast way, thermal camera. Slow way, -10 load and see how much it "sweat" on the outside.
     
  6. Army91W

    Army91W Heavy Load Member

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    Not harping on you but had a hard time reading your post with the font you chose.

    What is more important, a better model refeer unit that cools very well, or a newer better trailer to have a better seal/insulation?
    I currently have a 210 SB TK reefer unit with a rebuld eng on a 2006 Utility trailer. We have been having issues with it dropping down to -10 temp and holding it. It takes us 8 hours to drop down to -2 in 90's degree weather. The trailer has no holes and doesn't have any cracks when examined
    being inside with closed doors. We have also checked the refeer unit at TK and they told us it is working well with no issues, so we are not sure who is at fault here.

    Whats more important a Refeer unit or a good trailer?
     
  7. SemiMan

    SemiMan Light Load Member

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    May 21, 2013
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  8. RedForeman

    RedForeman Momentum Conservationist

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    Thermal camera is nice, but there's an easier way to find leaks than condensation. Get the unit cooling and go over it with an IR temp gun. Start with the obvious seals on the door and where the unit mounts, then work your way around the van. Don't forget the underside and the roof.

    Both.

    A 2006 trailer shouldn't be a problem, unless there's some damage somewhere or the chute is torn up. The SB-210 is a mid-range unit that's ok for frozen product, but not so great at it when the outside temps are higher. What you're describing sounds a little worse than normal for an empty trailer in 90º weather. You should be able to start the unit on an empty trailer and pull down to at least +10ºF in under an hour. If not, there's probably something wrong with your equipment, although the unit itself may be running ok and not throwing codes or have unusual readings.

    Crank it up and take a walk inside and look up to make sure the chute is in good condition and attached properly. Feel for where the air flow is. After a tour of the inside, shut the doors while checking the seals and a temp gun to find leaks. Get a ladder if you have to in order to check the tops. If there's no ladder around, I have used pallets and load locks to fashion a ladder inside to examine the tops of the doors one at a time. Yeah, you don't want to do that with both doors open without a helper to call the ambulance for you.

    On the unit, most likely to cause poor cooling would be trash in the evaporator (remove panel inside the trailer to get at it and clean out) or truck exhaust soot clogging the condenser (top of unit outside, use a pressure washer). Next thing would be to verify defrost cycle is functional. After running an hour and hitting the defrost button you should get a couple gallons of water out the drain pipes. If you got into the evap housing to clean out, don't forget those defrost drain pipes too while you're in there. If that water isn't draining out through the drain pipes, it's probably leaking inside the trailer and covering part of the evaporator, which could cause the poor cooling.

    Hope that helps.
     
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  9. SemiMan

    SemiMan Light Load Member

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    We do not have a chute, could that be one of our issues? Is a chute very crucial in cooling down the trailer?
     
  10. RedForeman

    RedForeman Momentum Conservationist

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    I think it would be more important with product loaded, to force the cold air to circulate all the way to the back of the load. With a load, not only are you getting the benefit of less air volume to cool, but the better circulation would bring that air across more of the (presumably) already cold cargo.

    Without a load no chute ought to come down to temp a little faster, albeit with the back of the van not actually reaching the inlet temp displayed on the unit. Can't say for sure because I've never run one without a chute. Maybe someone that has will chime in.

    Edit to add: After thinking on it, I have hauled one trailer without a chute with a frozen load. It was a 48' flat floor with a rollup door I was moving for a customer. I don't recall it really taking noticeably longer or shorter time to cool down. So there it is: one in a row. Maybe someone whose run more than one can add something.
     
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