Pneumatic tank drying

Discussion in 'Tanker, Bulk and Dump Trucking Forum' started by Fire-Man, Mar 14, 2015.

  1. Fire-Man

    Fire-Man Light Load Member

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    I'm new to drying these beasts. Needless to say my results, the time it takes to dry out, have been less than stellar in my humble opinion. My last company did not allow you to even climb on top of the tank much less run it through a tank wash. Can anyone give advice on the best, most efficient, way to reliably dry out after a wash please?

    Thanks in advance
     
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  3. terryt

    terryt Heavy Load Member

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    First some tank wash have heated dry after you wash always get done if they have it. Then you need pressure up and blow all valves lines clean in a safe place so no one get blasted by the pressure. To dry the tank run your blower full speed for about 40 minutes at 10 psi with each valve open just enough to keep you pressure up this makes hot air to dry your tank this is all tank psi no line psi needed. There is no short cuts it take time just make sure it dry.
     
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  4. Fire-Man

    Fire-Man Light Load Member

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    @terryt - thanks for the reply. My drying times have never been under two hours. :-(
     
  5. Rollin'Coal

    Rollin'Coal Bobtail Member

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    You get paid while it's drying?
     
  6. Fire-Man

    Fire-Man Light Load Member

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    $25 as part of our pre-load inspection included in weekly settlement.
     
  7. rbrtwbstr

    rbrtwbstr Road Train Member

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    It's winter. It typically took me an hour and a half to dry out in winter. Summertime as little as 35 minutes. I usually started with my top air valve open and hopper valves cracked open to get the worst of it out, then switched to the aerators, which gives you the heat. I only opened one hopper at a time, so you get max airflow through a single hopper at a time, which seemed to speed up the process.
     
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  8. Fire-Man

    Fire-Man Light Load Member

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    @rbrtwbstr - thanks. I run plastic and nylon chips. Our tanks do not have aerators so we generate heat by restricting the top air.

    Does this sound right:

    restrict top top air, close product (bottom) line air, crack product (hopper valves) therefore forcing air and residual water down and out the product (bottom) line?
     
  9. rbrtwbstr

    rbrtwbstr Road Train Member

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    Yeah, that'll work too. I wouldn't close the top air much more than half though. Going too far will cause too much heat, and cause the melt out plug on your blower to melt.
     
  10. Fire-Man

    Fire-Man Light Load Member

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    Agreed...Thanks
     
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