88 International S1900 Dump

Discussion in 'International Forum' started by StrokeHerAce, Nov 4, 2015.

  1. StrokeHerAce

    StrokeHerAce Bobtail Member

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    I just got the little truck and it has a few problems, most are little, some are possibly more complex. Any help in where to look and direction to go would be greatly appreciated.
    1) Air Compressor leaks oil---noticed at base of compressor, not bad at all, but needs to be fixed really. It is a Haldex EL13060X and oil is present where base mounts to plate. I am guessing a seal or gasket on the underside. Just enough to make it wet, not enough to drip.
    2)Turbo Oil leak?---appears that turbo is leaking oil and dripping on exhaust. Will the simple turbo rebuild kits fix this? How much of a pain is it to rebuild a turbo. I am highly mechanically inclined and can do hydraulics, auto/manual trans, and engine rebuilds without issue. Just never torn into a turbo before...
    3) Oil usage---could be related to #2 possibly, once again turbo ignorant here to say the least. I know the leak is external, could it also leak into the exhaust or intake? I mean honestly to be safe at idle you need scuba gear to breath due to all the smoke. It is a DT466, runs great, plenty of power, starts like a dream...so I do not suspect that it needs rebuild, but from Ky to SC the little truck used like 8-10 gallons of oil. Not sure how much was blowing out of turbo and how much was burning to be honest.
    4) Are there manuals for the engine and or truck that do not require me to pay a fortune? They are not as bad as my John Deere backhoe, but they are still some "golden paper" assets according to the great manual gods.

    Thanks in advance and I can upload pictures of anything if needed.
     
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  3. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Replace the compressor and turbo with reman units. Pull the exhaust outlet pipe off the back of the turbo and inspect for oil bypassing. 8-10 gallons is huge! Does this make oil puddles on the ground if you just run it for about an hour?
     
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  4. StrokeHerAce

    StrokeHerAce Bobtail Member

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    Small puddles, but more seems to be burning than leaking. I may end up replacing the turbo, but seal and rebuild kit is $35.00, reman turbo is $350. I would rather keep that zero if I can. The compressor pumps really good, rebuild kit and gaskets $28.00 reman compressor is $300 or so. I would rather fix them if I can and take the low dollar route first if I can. Between that and the backhoe, if I spend much more I will have to buy a nice tombstone cause my wife will kill me.
     
  5. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    If you are able to rebuild those components, then go for it! No offense, but most people are at their limits with just removing them.
     
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  6. StrokeHerAce

    StrokeHerAce Bobtail Member

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    I fully understand that, tore apart my first car engine and rebuilt it at 12-13, was old chevy truck with inline 6 and California head. The compressor I have zero worries about. The turbo will be a new experience for me. I think that is the only thing on a car I have never had apart to be honest. Ring and pinion is probably the most troublesome thing in one really. That is cause I don't have a machine and have to guess on backlash and shims until I get it right...lots of paint and time sometimes doing that. I would not be offended by that even if it was way above my head. It's just good sound advice to be honest :)
     
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  7. PeteyFixAll

    PeteyFixAll Medium Load Member

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    For giggles,
    Pull the inlet piping off the intake side of the turbo, should be basically rubber boots with hose clamps.
    Now is the pipe heading to the intake all oily inside?
    And you should be able to look in the end of the turbo and see the center nut on the compressor wheel, is there any evidence, shiny metal, that the wheel can or has touched the housing while spinning?
    Next slip two fingers in there, grab that nut and try and wiggle it, do you feel any play?
    Does it spin freely and coast nicely?

    These are some of the basic checks of a Turbo, If it has kissed the housing, is dumbing oil, feels loose (chucks around) or doesn't spin nicely, take it to a reputable rebuilder and get another one!!!

    Once the bushings start to wear out they will basically dump oil into the intake. Resealing them and having it last is usually not a garage workbench project, some very accurate tolerances and sometimes reaming is required.
     
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  8. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    A decent quality dial indicator and magnetic base can be bought for like $100. Saves a lot of screwing around trying to set backlash on gears.

    I'd say worst case scenario if you re-seal the compressor and rebuild the turbo and it still uses oil, you won't have to pay a shop to do it when you do an inframe.
     
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  9. StrokeHerAce

    StrokeHerAce Bobtail Member

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    Tore apart compressor and took the micrometer to it and it's worse than I would have thought. It will need to be bored unfortunately. With that said its not worth my effort to run around, get it bored buy parts and assemble again. All that is $175 from what I gathered today. Found a rebuilt one for $275 and I am waiting the same time as parts to rebuild. Project #2 was turbo, it looks rather good once I got all the oil cleaned out of it. No wear on anything really, I don't have tolerances to be dead sure, but everything looks good except for one seal and it appears to have split apart from defect. From looking at the inside of the turbo I would say it is a recent rebuild or new. With the seal broken the way it was, I was running a hidden black diesel system and didn't know it. Pretty sure that's where most of my oil was going. I have the seals on the way so I will update once I get it back on and running.
     
  10. StrokeHerAce

    StrokeHerAce Bobtail Member

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    UPDATE: Sorry it took so long to get back on here and update. Rebuilt compressor is running good and other than freaking over core shipping price it is all good. Turbo turbo turbo...that's a bad word in my house now. I bought a book with all the specs and rebuild instructions for the turbo on the great Amazon and it was well worth it really. I really liked the don't try this at home part pointed out 25 times. Either way it gave me enough information to get the job done so was ten bucks well spent. Also picked up a large diesel engine book for about the same. Step 1 remove turbo from truck...that went just lovely thought I would have nothing left but a motor mount and the dipstick left on the motor before I got it off. I was mainly trying not to break bolts so I ended up pulling manifold off and then turbo off the manifold. Step 2 disassemble turbo...soaked in PB Blaster for three days tapped bolts with air hammer couple times a day while soaking. When I say tapped I hit the heads of the ones I could get to with air hammer turned way down. Got bolts out after grinding a wrench to 3/8' thickness to fit around oil outlet and turbine housing and heating them a few times. Did not think turbine housing was ever going to come apart. Heated and tapped for what seemed like 3 days and it finally decided that I was not going to stop so it gave in and came apart. Compressor housing came apart so much easier and then pulled compressor wheel off. Shaft and turbine wheel was in really good shape for its age. The oil seals as they are called were worn over half way compared to thickness of new ones. Bearings were also in good shape, but had wear on them. Took everything to a friend to get it cleaned up and after he got done it looked like a new one...just in many pieces. Step 3 Figure out where all these parts go...that went smoothly due to good pictures and the books. Step 4 see if it spins...passed the test and yes I used assembly lube so I didn't hurt anything by spinning it what little I did at a low rpm. Step 5 Assemble truck...went good and runs good, have not had a chance to burn all the oil out of the intake yet so a little smoke still but no oil is blowing out the exhaust now. I would highly advise against rebuilding a turbo that is this old and would not do it if I had it to do over. In all honesty it was flat stupid on how much time it took to get the turbine section apart. Most people would not bas gentle when stuff is stuck together like that and would probably kill the housing beating on it. I learned a lot while doing it so it was not overall bad, but time is $$$ and its cheaper to buy one in the long run. Big thanks for the help by everyone though!!! Sooner or later I may ask and learn enough to help someone if I keep at it.
     
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  11. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    Right on! Usually with exhaust/turbo bolts I find most times if you get a cutting torch and heat the bolt heads cherry red, then let them cool down for a couple minutes they usually come loose pretty quick.
     
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