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t 2000 air leak

Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by oneloadshort, May 14, 2015.

  1. May 14, 2015 #1
    oneloadshort

    oneloadshort Bobtail Member

    22
    4
    Apr 27, 2012
    Houston TeXaS
    0
    air leaking through this valve, it does matter if the yellow knob is in or out, no leaks anywhere else, any help will be very nice..... 20150514_172047.jpg
     
    oneloadshort, May 14, 2015
    oneloadshort, May 14, 2015
    #1
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  3. May 15, 2015 #2
    Oscar the KW

    Oscar the KW Going Tarpless

    12,246
    28,113
    May 19, 2011
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    Replace it.
     
    Oscar the KW, May 15, 2015
    Oscar the KW, May 15, 2015
    #2
  4. May 19, 2015 #3
    oneloadshort

    oneloadshort Bobtail Member

    22
    4
    Apr 27, 2012
    Houston TeXaS
    0
    Ok that fixed that, but now my air dryer is purging,replace the gov, still purging, before I replaced the gov it popped of at about 132, purge valves opened,bleed till about 110psi, purge valve closed built back up popped off again repeating the process,now it's popping off at about 135 psi bleeding down to 100psi and repeating, also my fan hasn't shut off either, could a faulty fan hub be the cause....? Or is it the air dryer?
     
    oneloadshort, May 19, 2015
    oneloadshort, May 19, 2015
    #3
  5. May 20, 2015 #4
    WitchingHour

    WitchingHour Road Train Member

    3,422
    2,142
    Apr 1, 2011
    Broomfield, CO
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    Diagnosis... it's sort of a hands on thing.
    Do you use, say, an air actuated fan clutch such as a Borg Warner clutch? Also, what engine do you have? If you have a Cummins, it'll supply air to the fan clutch once you turn the key to the on position... if you have an engine which doesn't do this, there'll be a 1/4" line to the fan hub... you can disconnect the compression fitting at the fan hub (it's usually 9/16" wrench to do this), connect a 1/4" line to a different air source, and supply air to it that way... if you hear air escaping at that point, your fan clutch is shot... spray it with soap and water if you want to double check.
    As for your air, did you change the canister?
    Also, it helps to ask such questions before you go throwing parts at it. Just saying... although the air governor should only be about a $20 part, so no big loss there... the purge valve... well, that depends on your model of air dryer... especially if you have the type just held in with a snap ring, I hope you didn't pay someone else to change it.
    As for the can, they can get stuck on there pretty good... I like to use a 36" pipe wrench to take them off... Harbor Freight sells a steel one for ~$23... I paid substantially more for an Irwin one, but I use mine more often than you probably would.
    Your cut out pressure is 5 psi high... IIRC, cut out is supposed to be between 115 and 130, with a cut in pressure of no less than 25 psi below cut out.
     
    WitchingHour, May 20, 2015
    WitchingHour, May 20, 2015
    #4
  7. May 20, 2015 #5
    oneloadshort

    oneloadshort Bobtail Member

    22
    4
    Apr 27, 2012
    Houston TeXaS
    0
    Motor is a cat c15, been doing some late night research, and few things I'm coming up with are the the delivery check
    valve, the two 1/4 in lines , dirty canister and last but not least the purge valve, when I noticed the first leak up front I started trouble shooting and tracing the air lines, when under the truck spraying down the lines I smacked it with a wrench out of frustration and then the long purging started, so this problem is on me, I've had the truck a year and am trying to take in as much info about the little things that kill, however container freight(which I'm trying to get out of) isn't paying well, either I live or I fix but not both lol, tried pulling the purge valve off this am but no luck, glad you mentioned it's tough to get out,so in the morning I'll price the new lines,delivery check valve,purge valve,and canister and probably just end up buying a new unit lol, oh and I did the key on engine off test for the fan hub no leaks since I replace the brake valve....oh and how is it that you use the pipewrench to remove the valve ?
     
    oneloadshort, May 20, 2015
    oneloadshort, May 20, 2015
    #5
  8. May 20, 2015 #6
    WitchingHour

    WitchingHour Road Train Member

    3,422
    2,142
    Apr 1, 2011
    Broomfield, CO
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    TBH, I haven't done much work with the Cats, and don't remember offhand if they start with the fan clutch engaged or not... the key on leak test only works in engines which start with it disengaged (air supplied to the clutch), which the Cummins does.. if it doesn't start with air supplied to it, then you have to supply air from an outside source...
    the pipe wrench, I use for the canister, not the valve
     
    WitchingHour, May 20, 2015
    WitchingHour, May 20, 2015
    #6
    oneloadshort Thanks this.
  9. May 20, 2015 #7
    oneloadshort

    oneloadshort Bobtail Member

    22
    4
    Apr 27, 2012
    Houston TeXaS
    0
    Well got the filter off,scraping any ideas of a rebuild at this point, gotta buy a new unit anyway due to a stripped filter and unit, apparently who ever serviced it last cross threaded it and kept going, and boy did I enjoy getting it off,at first thought I may have needed a 48"pipewrench lol, well after I replace the new unit and if I still have issues I'll do the unloader and air lines.....!
     
    oneloadshort, May 20, 2015
    oneloadshort, May 20, 2015
    #7
  10. May 20, 2015 #8
    oneloadshort

    oneloadshort Bobtail Member

    22
    4
    Apr 27, 2012
    Houston TeXaS
    0
    Well to close this out for now,I not sure of the issue on the old dryer but the new air dryer works like it should,no air leaks in my brake controller, time to get my LS inspection and move about,thanks for the help fellas...!
     
    oneloadshort, May 20, 2015
    oneloadshort, May 20, 2015
    #8
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